Breechplug

Thank's JW, Im glad I started this Thread as I have learned a-lot from all the Guy's who posted on it especially (ronlaughlin) and Im sure there's going to be many who learn much from what has been posted.
(BP)

Gm54-120

I would like to see the full context of his statement for two main reasons. BH209 was developed in the Savage MLII and two of the Savage "book" powders are very easy to ignite with 225-300gr bullets and just a Win209 primer.

The flash channel in a MLII plug is pretty long and has plenty of volume even for mag primers. Its not my favorite design but i really cant see how it would need modification (excluding liners) for book powders or BH209. Keep it clean and the vents within spec and it will go bang nearly every time.

MountainDevil54

go to the savage forum and it will be under the Misfires topic.

ronlaughlin

These screws are decorative screws that are chrome plated? They are hard? They endure the flame of ignition? You drill them with cobalt drills?..........or do they cut with high speed drills?

Currently i am using a vent liner i made from a stainless cap screw. It is wearing well. After well over 100 primers, there is no detectable wear, but the stainless is quite hard on drills.

Today i reread this thread from beginning to end. Much of the information provided by you, Screwbolts was too much for me to understand when i first read it. Wow, what valuable knowledge you shared with the forum; i am glad this thread was brought back.

builder459

What makes a good breech plug.one that reliably ignites all powders from the factory without modifications and easy tool free removal.. so far T/C has come the closest to the perfect BP.as long as BH 209 has been out and with it's rapidly growing popularity, i am disappointed that the perfect BP hasn't been devised. Ray

paul54

Here is a response I received from Don Luhr of Western Powders. He addresses breech plug design in the last response. I could not figure out how to attach the picture he sent with his response. The new Omega BP design he is referring to is the one with the deep concave face. The older design had a very shallow concave face.


Paul

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Subject: Remington STS Primers
Question Type: Technical

I am planning to purchase your Blackhorn 209 powder. I have read about the primers you recommend.

Do you know or have test data on using Remington STS primers with BH 209?

Toby Bridges did some testing and had no problems using these primers with your powder.


Many thanks,

Paul

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Paul,

Thank you for the e-mail. It really depends on what gun you are using and the condition of the ignition system. Can you tell me what gun are you using?

Best regards,
Don Luhr
Western Powders

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Don,

Sorry about that. I shoot a T/C Omega .50 cal with no modifications. It has the original breech plug.

Thank you,

Paul

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Paul,

That's one of my favorite. Make sure you have the new breech plug, the one on the right in the picture. Follow the breech plug cleaning illustration and you should be good to go. Our Omega can shoot a variety of primers. It's almost the perfect breech plug design.

If you have any trouble at all please let us know.

Best regards,
Don

Screwbolts

Originally Posted by Screwbolts
...........................( I drill my own Halo Chrome 10x32 x 3/8 screws to make vent liners)...............

Hi Ron,

Spelling has never been one of my strong points. :-)

Holo Krone : http://www.holo-krome.com/

I currently use the: Flat Head Socket cap screws in 10/32 x 3/8

If you look at the above link I am sure you will see a real similarity in the: Button Head Socket Cap Screws to the design that Lehigh markets, although this screw lacks the needed 82* taper. :-)

These are very hard, Rockwell of over 50 for the screws IIRC. :-)

I use Cobalt .0315 drills to drill them. I have gotten as high as 17 vents drilled per bit.

ronlaughlin

Screwbolts

Ken, thanks for the information on the Holo-Krome screws. These stainless screws i am using, are very hard to drill.

Screwbolts

Ron,, some stainless alloys work hardens as you work it so if you hesitate with a cutter/drill the SS actualy gets harder right there. It can be a royal pain to work with. :-)

ronlaughlin

Yup, so true; when i am in the middle of making the flash hole, sometime i can feel the drill vibrate in the cut. Before i get to this place, the drill has been cutting smmooothly, but then i feel a vibration. At that point, i have either continued with the hole, or quit, and blow out the chips. I believe the reason it chatters is because there is no lube left, deeper into the hole. So stopping the process, blowing out the chips, and lubricating the hole, and starting anew, seems to be the best way to proceed, however i have experienced drill breaks at this restart. Other times, i stubbornly continue with the hole even though i feel the chatter; sometimes the drill punches through; other times it breaks.

Is there a technique to get lube into the hole without stopping, and removing the drill? I don't think there is, so i stop the cut, and remove the drill, clean out the chips, and relube. I try to do this before the work hardens, but i sure do break a lot of cobalt drills @ $3 each.

It is hard for me to know when to hesitate or proceed. Either way i break drills. Some drills are better than others, but i forget where i got the better ones so far. I just received new drills today, and tried one out. It cut the stainless like hot butter for about 1/8", but then started to chatter. I believe the steel hardened, and dulled the drill. I think i should have quit drilling sooner. It took 3 tries to finish the hole, which it did, but i am concerned, it won't be able to finish another. I have another drill that has made about 10 stainless ventliners, but i can't remember where i got it. Gee, i wish i had more like it.