Hey Guys,

I am looking for a little feedback. I have tried and have had moderate success with Imperial Whitetail Clover and Alfa-Rack. I am wondering if anyone has used Imperial and has also tried Biologic, specifically their Premium Perennial. What are your thoughts, positive or negative.

Thanks

HI, WE HAVE 66 ACERS AND APPROX. 13 OF IT ARE FOOD PLOTS. WE HAVE 9 OR 10 DIFFERENT FOOD SOURCES ON OUR PROPERTY, BIOLOGIC, WHITETAIL INSTITUTE PRODUCTS, BUCK FORAGE OATS, ETC. WE HAVE WHITETAIL CLOVER AND ALFA RACK AND ALSO NO-PLOW. BIOLOGIC WE HAVE PERENIAL, MAXIMUM AND ONE OTHE PRODUCT ALSO. WE HAVE HAD GREAT SUCCESS WITH BOTH COMPANIES AND OUR OTHER PRODUCTS, BUT MOST IMPORTANT IS SOIL PREP. WITHOUT SOIL SAMPLES, LIME, FERTILIZER AND WEED CONTROL YOUR THROWING YOUR MONEY AWAY AS FAR AS LONG TERM CROPS GO. A GOOD WAY TO PREPARE YOUR SITE IS TO SPRAY A ROUND-UP PRODUCT (GENERIC) IN SPRING, END OF JUNE-1st WEEK OF JULY AND AGAIN IN LATE AUGUST. THIS WILL INSURE YOU OF A WEED FREE SEED BED COME NEXT SPRING, THEN PLANT AS DIRECTED. THERE IS A WAY TO FROST SEED YOUR FOOD PLOT BUT THAT CAN BE A LITTLE BIT HARDER IN SOME WAYS AND IN SOME WAYS EASIER. WELL IF YOU WANT ANY MORE ADVISE E-MAIL, THANKS KIRT

Ok sounds great. Thanks for the advice. We have about a 2 acre plot all set to go for this spring. I have submitted a soil sample and will await the results. I am sure we'll have to add lime and fertilize as this was a wooded area (oaks) prior to clear cutting, bull dozing and disking.

My plan is to plant a spring plot of Premium and add Maximum to it in the fall.

I will spray Poast (in the event we have any unwanted grasses), during the spring and summer months. I am expecting some grasses, hopefully not too much though.

Kyler - Good luck on your plot this spring. I cannot comment specifically on the blends you mentioned (both sound good) - but I would remind you to get a firm seed bed - an roll it or drive over it repeatedly after planting to ensure a firm seedbed. That along with adequate moisture are probably about the most important 1st steps in getting a good plot.

Hi (sorry for my bad english I'm a frnech canadian)

Kyler, the Mix Premium contains clover chicory and Brassica (Maximum) so for the first year you don't have to plant Maximum on your'e plot because the premium contains approximately 15% or + of Brassica. That is the same cultivar than the Maximum.
So the Brassica of youre premium mix will be eat this falls 2005. By this way you can plant your'e Maximum over the clover and the chicory (perennial) that remain next year (june 2006). Don't add more brassica on youre mix because large leaf add shadow inhibit the growth of the clover/chicory.

Also for the second year you can alternate with an half of youre field with brassica over the clover/chicory and let the other half with the clover and the chicory that remains. And the year after you can plant Brassica on the other half.....rotation limitate fungus disease for the brassica.


Hope I'M clear

Yann

Kirt, Farmhunter and Yann,

Thanks for your advice.

I plan on rolling the plot first, broadcasting the seed, rolling again, followed by watering.

Yann, thanks for your advice as well. I guess I didn't realize that the brassica was already in the Premium. I have been reading so much about different seeds, I overlooked that. Thanks for pointing that out otherwise I maybe would have shaded too much of the plot.

Another question I thought of is; if I will need lime, which I know I will, should I try to lime in advance, or lime and fertilize when I seed. I am planning at this point to plant in the spring unless anyone has a better idea. I thought about a fall planting with oats as a buffer, but I would really like to get the plot up and running in the spring. Please let me know your thoughts.

As far as weeds, I am sure I will get some grasses which I will hit with Poast, but I am not too worried about weed control, (at least now I'm not...)

I am planting in Adams county which is a little south of central Wisconsin.

Thanks again!!!!!!

Lime at planting. It cannot hurt to do it sooner - but it probably wouldn't help any either. I like the lime in the upper 2" at planting, I think it has a quicker effect on that year's planting - if concentrated in the topmost layers.

I like a spring planting as well. Mow it at least 2x the first year - that will take care of the annual weeds - don't worry if you mow the brassicas off - they will rebound some - but its important not to let the annual weeds take too much nutrients and/or develop seeds in year 1 - and then you can see in Year 2 - if you need to spray the grasses or not.

Farm Hunter,

Thanks again for your tips!!!!!

One last question, (hopefully..I'm getting to be a pain in the ars) When do you suggest we mow? Certain plant height? Time of the year? When we see weeds, etc......

I know that it's important not to cut during drought, cut it about six inches high or so .... Any tips are appreciated. Thanks.

(Man I love the info you guys are giving me.)

Kyler,
Of the products mentioned I've only used the Imperial products. I have about 5 acres that were planted last June. The 1st year was very impressive. I got all the seed planted through out the month of June. The seed that was planted June 1st did the best by the end of August I had clover that was about 16" high. I made plans to have it cut. About 5 days later it was mowed down to about 6". The deer did the mowing for me. I called whitetail institute and asked them if this would hurt my plots in any way. There response was a definate NO. They stated that cutting would allow for new leafy top developement. Whether the deer , or I did it was not a concern to them. They did recommend that if I have clover that high in early June to go ahead and cut it. They recommend cutting to 6"-8".They also recommend to fertilize twice a year. Spring and again in late August or early Sept. I did take a chance on not liming. I had a soil ph of 6.3. Planning on putting in 5 more acres this spring. It will depend on when the dozer work gets done. If it gets to late I will just plant rye for this year. Good Luck, Mark

I would'nt waste my money on either. Just pick up a package and look at the back and read the ingredients. Then go to your local feed store or seed dealer and buy all the seeds for a 1/3 of the cost.