MdDave

im sorry fellas i dont visit here much but im sure this question is asked all the time.... i want to start a food plot this spring... i talked about it before but never did it.. im serious about it this year... i have access to some farm equip. tractor an such not quite sure what attachments are available with it(disc for sure).. could somone please explain to me the correctsteps i have to go through to be sucessful...like i said im new at this so i have about 10000 questions...

Jayme roper

well what are you wanting to plant?

country1

I strongly suggest you stay away from what is referred to as genetically altered or modified seed. There are a lot of unanswered questions as to what these seeds do the the soil in the long term.

If you plat an annual, you should do a crop rotation. Planting the same annual year after year on the same soil invites problems with disease.

As roper asked what are you planning to sow? What you plant determines what you do with the soil.

Bugflipper

First off soil sample. This will tell you how much lyme and fertilize you need. After that decide whether you want a perennial plot that will last for many seasons or an annual plot for one. In general perennial gives a medium to high protein source with low to medium yield per plant. Annual can usualy give anywhere from low to high yield with very low to medium protein depending on selection. What state do you live in? And as the gentleman above said try to stear clear of roundup ready seed. There are many other versions of modified or altered but this is the chief type in our country.
Blessings

MdDave

i think an annual food plot would work better for me... i livein md

MdDave

ok so i collected my soil sample today its drying out as we speak... im gonna send it away to biologic when its dry... now for the time being what is my next step? spray to kill all the growth that is there now??

Bugflipper

No sir, it's too early to spray. Next step is to get the lyme out after the test results. It takes a very long time to break down. After you see the ammount needed. Have the guy apply it as soon as he can get in the area. It is a very nominal fee to get the local co-op out and do it when purchased by the ton. From this point it can be left until mid April.
2-3 weeks before planting time it's time to plow and disc. Then at the time of planting fertilze disc and seed while cultipacking or dragging the field to ensure a good seed bed with ample soil contact.
Personally I don't spray, but if you wish, the leaves on what you want to kill need to be green. That would set planting time back another 3 weeks or so and your tonnage offered to the deer will suffer. I do not know of a herbicide that kills seed. So you still have to disc to kill the new germination. Herbicide has become common with the new farm practices of no till by drilling seed. But if you do a turn and disc practice it is waisting a whole lot of money and nutrients that could have been put back into the soil from the rotting germinated sprouts and live roots you turn under and chopped up. The weeds and grass have so many different times of the year when they are active it is impossible to kill them all with herbicide unless sprayed every month. When they are in their dormant stage most will not be killed. Plowwing them under then chopping up the roots with the disk will kill the majority of plants. I do run no till on my row crops. But you depend on killing everything that is active. Then getting the crop up to shade and choke out any weeds that may germinate afterwords. There are still weeds they just can't compete with the main crop so they are stunted and draw fewwer nutrients from the soil than a full grown weed.

http://usagardener.com/breaking_grou..._dates_usa.php This will give you a guide when you can seed after the last expected frost.

Blessings

country1

Sometimes it may be better to spray with Roundup or its generic equivalents. It all depends on the type of weeds and their root system. Using a chisel plow helps to spread the root system of some weeds. If roundup is used, sometimes it is best to not till the soil. Working the soil can bring up new seeds which will then germinate. Roundup onlykills the plants thatare up and active. If Roundup or a similar chemical is used, I suggest waiting ten days to two weeks before you work the soil. Yearly use of a particular chemical weed killer is not a good practice. You increase the chances of having mostly weeds that are immune to that chemical.

MdDave

i appreciate everyones input.. if ive learned one thing from all this its, EVERYONE plants theres differently an has there own style.. guess ill jus have to firgure mine out!