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Game Cameras...

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Old 12-25-2017, 03:07 PM
  #1  
Spike
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Default Game Cameras...

After reading the Best Trail Camera Thread I can only wonder how many different brands and Models those that Posted has Used?
I have had 8 different High End Moultries M-1100i, M-990i and M-880i and All have Failked with in the first 6 Months! Similar with Covert had 3 1 Black 60 and 2 Red 40 all had issues the 60 blurry day and night images and missed a lot and False Triggers and why I no longer have any. As for Stealth have had several that are good cams especially for video till Jan 2017 Their G42NG had Flickering, sent them in got 2 more the same they okay pic cams but not Video cams. I have also had a Uway extremely grainy night time images pic and video. Again a High end Game Camera. I also have had Browning Dark Ops and Spec Ops hands down the 2016 Spec Ops is a good cam especially for Video.

I have had more than 20 different cams plus all the replacements of another 14 most 9 Moultrie, 1 Covert and 3 Stealth. I gave up sending cams back being bad out of the box makes it sad especially for cams that are priced over 200.00 and when you get a replacement they have a new issue like total whiteouts at transition times which is an important time to see what wildlife is traveling by. It seems that Users have had limited experience using cams and also the fact that No 2 Users have the same set up and know what cams are to function like missing animals or dark images or flash burn and again once you have seen this one wonders what is a "Good" Cam! So I can only wonder when All Moultrie and Covert does is send out a New Replacement doubt they will ever test returns to Fix them they just change things like Stealth and Moultrie making a change and the newer version has issues again out of the Box. And some wonder why they make any changes to what was a Decent Game Camera.
Once you have used several you will see a difference but that is $ trying something and as mentioned it is "Hit & Miss"... So I can only see that some go with the Known Names that are readily sold. I was looking for a good Black Flash and some suggested the Black 60 so I got one and was disappointed and one of the guys that suggest it when asked about "false triggers" said he just lives with it! That told me that is why some have little knowledge as to what a Good Camera really is. Sad but again if we all used the same settings and in the same environment then we might have similar results but we never will!
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:44 AM
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Spike
 
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lol dude ,calm
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:23 AM
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I some what agree with you
IMO most all game camera's are like pick of the litter
some times you get a GREAT one, some times its a basket case of issues
and cams that are sold in more places will always sell more of them due to many folks are impulse buyers, and in today's world of simple minded people being SO impressionable by marketing
marketing and fancy stickers will sell countless amounts of JUNK FAST
I have never had any luck with moultrie camera's at all, and I have owned well over 50 + cameras of all brands over the yrs , with my first cams being 35 mm film from the 90's
I been playing with game cams a LONG time
there solar power panels have been GREAT however LOL
I have been using lately a bunch of the cheapest cams I can find, TACSO"S at wally world for 25 bucks, and honestly, they been worth ALL of the 25 bucks and then some
thousands of pic's off batterys, FAST wake up time, and SO SO pic's, seldom if ever a pic of NOTHING

but I am not the type of person to NEED to have the most popular brand of anything
I just like things that work and last and get the job done!
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:47 PM
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I have a few Moultrie 888i, and I love them, when I see them at a good price I will buy them. Pictures day/night as well as battery life are excellent
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:33 PM
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Just picked up a 888i on ebay using a promo code, free shipping, $69.00
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:47 AM
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I haven't tried the Moultrie's yet, but I have several Stealthcam G42NG's that I've used for several seasons. Last year, we added 2 more of them, just because they have worked so well for me. Overall, photo quality is really good, reset speed is fast, and video quality is exceptional. The biggest thing that I was wanting is a fast reset on the shutter, as the areas that I'm photographing are usually denser, so you can only get a few photos before the game is out of sight. I am really intrigued by some of the other newer options on the market, but in the meantime, I'm going to keep running these as long as I can.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:19 AM
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Spike
 
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I would like to offer up a little advice and encouragement. I run chasingame.com and started testing trail cameras in 2005.for myself then for all the manufacturers. I finally decided I couldn't be the manufacturers R&D department for free so I returned to testing them and publishing the results on retail ready not prerelease cameras.
When we first started white-out and slow trigger was an issue.

Whiteout is an issue with light metering. When the camera wakes due to PIR or time lapse, the first thing it does is use the day night sensor to determine if it is day or night then decide to turn on the IRs or not. Generally a camera will not have an issue in the bright day or dark night. The troublesome time frames are the transition times at dusk and dawn. All manufacturers can have this issue and the issue is not hardware. Instead it is software. When the camera wakes, it begins to sample light as part of the exposure and determine a white balance then stop and save the image to the SD card. when there is a bug you may get white out.

Over the years the white out issue has all but disappeared based on my testing over the last 13 years. Now, there is a time frame where the camera will go into black and white mode but not fire the LEDS. In many cases this period can be overly bright or overly dark in the images. It is nearly a toss up as to which way this is solved my the programmers but there is no perfect solution in any case and lighting is always different for every camera.

Trigger speed: When we tested our first digital camera from Stealth in 2005 it had a 6 second trigger time. We kept wondering why all the photos were empty. for the most part all cameras on the market now have at or below 1 second trigger times. trigger time is the time elapsed from when motion is detected until the photo is snapped. This includes time for the camera to boot up (like a computer) and begin the light metering to determine a proper white balance. then save the image to sd card. On some Bushnell and Reconyx I have seen trigger times as low as .18 seconds. In many cases a .18 second trigger time will begin to place animals in your photos near the edges if walking past the camera because it is so fast. the response to this is a narrower PIR cone or zone. A wider angle PIR generally means that the camera has more time to wake up and a somewhat slower trigger time is still ok.

False triggers can fall into severeal categories.

1 - your camera is mounted on something that moves like too small of a tree and wind blowing triggers the motion
2 - limbs and grasses in front of the camera are triggering the PIR.

#1 and #2 are not the manufacturers fault. This is a user problem. Either use a fatter tree and mount lower down, or use a stand that separates the camera from the movement. also use a weed eater and mow down small stuff out to 50+ feet and cut limbs blowing in the periphery and the camera's sensing cone.

3 - PIR sensitivity and run away. In the past manufacturers tried to extended the distance that a camera can be triggered. In doing so they introduced what we called run-away effect. PIR sensors use a fresnel lens which is like a magnifying glass to focus infra red light (also called heat) onto a light sensitive chip. Now the camera must use resistor values and firmware to decide how much of a change is considered motion. If a resistor value chosen allowed the camera to become too sensitive then at certain times of the day or conditions the camera would start taking photos non stop or a single blade of grass at 50 feet would trigger the camera.

For the most part the run-away issue is also a thing of the past. Some years ago Bushnell had this issue really bad. Many manufacturers had the white out issue as well. In recent years I have not tested a camera that exhibited white out or run-away.

Sensing out beyond 50 feet in 90+ degree weather is difficult for most cameras regardless of what the box or website tells you. I still get cameras that have sensing only to 40 feet even in the cool night1 (this is BAD). PIR motion sensing works better and better the cooler it is. The old run-away seemed to happen during mid day in hot summer.

4 - PIR sensing cone does not match camera field of view. What this means is that the fresnel lens might be wide angle, lets say 65 degrees. But what you see in your photo is 55 degrees. As you can imagine an animal walks up and is within the 65 degree zone moving around for 30 minutes triggering the camera yet may never be in a photo. The owner will look at all these empty photos and get upset. This is now the most common issue for what you would call "false triggers" that are not #1 and #2. It is the manufacturers responsibility to match the sensing width and image field of view. in the past with cameras that sensed wider than the photo image, I would cut two pieces of black electrical tape and gently place them vertically over the outside portions of the fresnel lens to reduce its sensing cone horizontally. this normally fixes the issue. However keep in mind the issue can happen vertically as well. You can have a squirrel or raccoon messing around right below your camera triggering it over and over and never get the animal in the photo.

The trigger from below + empty photo issue can be caused be two things.
a. the sensing zone is vertically taller then the image height below and above. (warning tree limbs above camera can trigger it)
b. The CMOS image sensor is a 4:3 (standard) screen ratio and you have the camera set in wide screen mode set in camera settings. In wide screen mode the firmware simply crops a horizontal section of the photo both on top and bottom. Your squirrel or raccoon may have just been cropped out of the image!!!! what you see is another "false trigger".

A solution for the sensing zone too tall is... mount camera lower down or tilt it forward a bit (which may reduce its distant range) in order to capture the animal in the near foreground. Mounting your camera up high will just increase the chances of false triggers from below in many cases.

Conclusion:

Mount cameras on solid bases. Fat tree low down or camera stand. Mount cameras lower to the ground and possibly tilted forward a bit if animals are triggering from below. Trim foreground vegetation to the best of your ability. Trim and cut limbs in the periphery that move and blow in the wind. try using electrical tape on cameras with a wide sensor if you suspect sensing is wider than image field of view.

Trust me, I have been there done that...

Last edited by Chasingame; 09-26-2018 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:16 PM
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Spike
 
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Sun is causing false triggers (UV). How you prevent that?
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:12 AM
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Spike
 
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Originally Posted by MyName View Post
Sun is causing false triggers (UV). How you prevent that?
as far as I know the sun will not cause a PIR to trigger, however the warming ground in front of a camera may. there is no solution for that.
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