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Let's talk locks

Old 01-24-2016, 11:27 AM
  #11  
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The problem with coil springs is they lose all their strength at the end of travel when you need the most power. They depend on hammer momentum instead on spring strength to power the hammer down.
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:58 AM
  #12  
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Rather than getting another coil spring I'm wondering if I could take it off and make a cylinderical washer - even only 3/32 or 1/8" long that would keep the spring under a bit more tension?
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Old 01-24-2016, 12:42 PM
  #13  
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[email protected] wouldn,t have changed anything on the locks cause T/C quit makin em right after the [email protected] takeover.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:05 PM
  #14  
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I prefer Siler locks and White Lightning touch hole liners..
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Old 01-25-2016, 04:31 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Muley Hunter View Post
The problem with coil springs is they lose all their strength at the end of travel when you need the most power. They depend on hammer momentum instead on spring strength to power the hammer down.
That makes a lot of sense. never thought of it that way. But I think any spring is like that though, even a leaf/flat spring. Except the springs put on the higher end locks are likely installed under more tension to begin with.
That is the reason I was thinking of trying to install a cylindrical type spacer to put the coil under more tension. Even if its only 3/32" it should give me more power at the end of the hammer stroke.
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Old 01-25-2016, 04:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bronko22000 View Post
That makes a lot of sense. never thought of it that way. But I think any spring is like that though, even a leaf/flat spring. Except the springs put on the higher end locks are likely installed under more tension to begin with.
That is the reason I was thinking of trying to install a cylindrical type spacer to put the coil under more tension. Even if its only 3/32" it should give me more power at the end of the hammer stroke.
bronko...

That might be alright as long as the spacer doesn't cause "stacking". You don't want the coils to become compressed to a point where they're pressed together, i.e. stacked, to a point where they begin to "climb" (bend outward) that's not good either. You might want to consider sourcing a spring manufacturer that has a coil of the appropriate diameter and length but with more overall tension when compressed to the proper length.

BPS

Last edited by Blackpowdersmoke; 01-25-2016 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:13 PM
  #17  
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BPS - I'm not talking a lot. I just threw 3/32" out there. Remember the coil spring on the T/C lock rides on a steel rod. I was thinking something on the order of a tiny cylinder type washer the same diameter of the spring that would fit over the rod.
But getting another spring would be a heck of a lot easier if I can find one.
I'm just throwing ideas around while I'm down here in FL. I guess I'm getting bored because I don't have my "man cave" to retreat to so I can relieve some stress.
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:47 PM
  #18  
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You have to feel the hammer spring in the JBMR to realize how weak most lock springs are.

I grunt every time I cock it, and I can only do it with my strong side.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:06 PM
  #19  
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I have five caplocks with TC coil spring locks - 3 Renegades and 2 Hawkens. Four of them have popped close to 1,000 caps each with no problem (and no strain cocking the hammer ). The fifth one has almost 1,500 shots without a problem. My Lyman flintlocks also have coil springs that work just fine. I've never had a reason to knock coil springs.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:13 PM
  #20  
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I thought we were talking about flintlocks?
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