Thanks-I'll give it a try to night and if it appears to me that I CAN'T get back to anchor I will just have to make a trip back to cabelas and return it.

Kansas, I would normally suggest that a person moving from compounds to traditional should try a recurve first. But if you are going to buy a bow off the shelf (non-custom), you may want to pull back a few longbows (68") and see how they compare.

I just read your post again.

Where do you anchor with this bow ? Indek finger in corner or mouth or ??????

Perhaps you DO have a very long draw. I shot 65# compounds too and 50-52 pounds is about all the recurve/longbow I can control. I can shoot a few shots with upwards to 58-60#'s but tire very easily and don't have good control. Its just a whole 'nother ball game having full weight of the poundage on your draw and the different design and all.

In my experience longbow bows result in better control/accuracy and most often smoother. Remember though , each bow has its own character. Some kick like mules, some are silky smooth. What model are you shooting ? If you're truly like 30" draw or so, 60" will likely pinch and stack close to the ends of your draw. And addin 2 more inches equates roughly to 6 more pounds of draw -
Lots of variables

Hey, I just went to Cabela's online and if they have them, shoto a few of the martin recurves. they have a good reputation - shoot a 62" or maybe even 64" if they got one.

The bow I bought is a mangart hunter by tamars-45# @ 28" and 62" long. If I concentrate on getting it back I can and do seem to shoot better when I get to my anchor. The problem is I tend to release the arrow before I am at full draw. I am guessing it is something I will just have to work my way thru. I tried tamars web site and found nothing on poundage curve so I am assuming I am a wuss when it comes to drawing a recurve. Talking to people that have taken up traditional after shooting compounds for sometime, the common thread seems to be it is hard to get use to the perceived draw weight at first. I hope that is what my problem is.

I've never seen a regular "over the counter" bow that didn't stack at 31"--Bear, Martin, Browning, Pearson, Shakespeare, etc. There may be a few old ones out there, but it's not likely you will find a new one. Like Art said, those of us with an exceptionally long draw generally have to go custom for the bow to draw comfortably to our anchor. That doesn't mean you have to spend $1,000 for a bow, but you may have to get one made for you.

Consistency is the key--releasing before you get to anchor won't get you there. That is common when the bow is too heavy in draw weight--even though yours is 45@28, it may be 60 or more @ 31. I would not shoot any arrows at a target right now--work on your form. Concentrate on coming to full draw and anchoring. You might get up real close to the target (so close you can't miss), close your eyes, and focus on your grip (not too tight or you will torque), anchor, release, and follow-through. You might need a lighter weight bow for now. If you can get to some shoots, go just to try out some different bows. The bigger shoots have vendors that will explain the differences in their bows and let you try them out, and most trad archers will be happy for you to shoot their bows. Just remember we are as opinionated as anyone, and most of us think the bow we shoot is the best (othewise we wouldn't be shooting it). The bow that is best for one person may not be all that great for another. Some 60" bows can handle a 31" draw, while in other styles you might need a 66" or longer.

I like Byron Ferguson's "Become the Arrow" and Ricky Welch's instructional video, Volume II. You can't follow both exactly, because they have different styles, but you can get some good pointers from both.

Good luck!

Chad

What Chad said ........ and if truly you have a 30" + draw it's likely to "stack" and not feel "good" at that draw

I've been shooting at about 10 yds this week with some varied results to say the least, but it sure feels good and also easy when it all comes together and I hit my spot. Its those arrows that are 12" off at that range that sometimes make you wonder if you will ever figure it out. I hope I do.

read some books, check out websites, ask lots of questions and LOTs of practice! pick what info you like from ALL the sources, and come up with a method that works for YOU. i personally can't shoot 3 under, some love it. i like alot od asbells writing and tips, but his grip hand placement does not work for me.

everyone is a bit different, just remember its a LONG summer, don't be scared to fling arrows all over the place. when you find how your hitting well, stick with it, repeat the process OVER AND OVER and one day it will all "click"

some folks pick it up after 4 arrows, some after 400, or 4,000....you'll get it!

good luck
moose