Need advice on recurve
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 32
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My dad gave me a Ben Pearson Cougar 7050 recurve. AMO 62", 45X-28". I have never owned one before and would like to start shooting it. I shoot a compound now, 28.5" draw length/ 60 lb pull.
The string seems ok, I strung it up, drew and can hold it for several seconds. Would this be a good bow to start out with?
Also have some Easton 2314 Superlite aluminum arrows, fletched with 4" feathers that I am not using. Will they work alright with this recurve? Any other advice on getting started would be appreciated.
The string seems ok, I strung it up, drew and can hold it for several seconds. Would this be a good bow to start out with?
Also have some Easton 2314 Superlite aluminum arrows, fletched with 4" feathers that I am not using. Will they work alright with this recurve? Any other advice on getting started would be appreciated.
#3
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15,295
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi USA
The Cougar is a great old bow--Pearson bows don't get nearly the credit they deserve, IMO.
That 45X@28 means you are pulling 46@28, if you are getting a full 28" draw.
You can shoot the 2314's and not hurt the bow, but you aren't going to get good arrow flight (way overspined). It's been too long since I've shot aluminum to be able to give you a good idea of what spine will work better for you--maybe a 2016 or 2017 (with 125 grain points)? Just remember to keep your arrow weight at 8 grains of draw weight or more per pound of draw, to avoid damaging the bow. For example, if you are pulling 46# on it, you need a finished arrow that weighs 368 grains or more.
Good luck, have fun, and ask all the questions you want.
Chad
That 45X@28 means you are pulling 46@28, if you are getting a full 28" draw.
You can shoot the 2314's and not hurt the bow, but you aren't going to get good arrow flight (way overspined). It's been too long since I've shot aluminum to be able to give you a good idea of what spine will work better for you--maybe a 2016 or 2017 (with 125 grain points)? Just remember to keep your arrow weight at 8 grains of draw weight or more per pound of draw, to avoid damaging the bow. For example, if you are pulling 46# on it, you need a finished arrow that weighs 368 grains or more.
Good luck, have fun, and ask all the questions you want.
Chad
#5
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Talk to Chad (LBR) about a string.I would try 1916's and 2016's- see which shafts fly best for you. Easton Jazz shafts are cheap and spine the same as XX75's- try some of those before you splash out on a dozen Camo Hunters. Someone here mentioned Fall Stalkers too, but I don't have any experience with those.
#6
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15,295
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi USA
I like wood arrows, but starting out I'd go with something a little more predictable--aluminum or carbon. Wood arrows have their own particulars, and you could spend a lot of money on finished arrows before you got the right spine.
A new string would be a good idea--it's cheap, and may keep you or your bow from getting damaged if the old one were to fail. You can use endless or flemish, just be sure it's dacron (B-50 or B-500). Depending on how you like it set up, string length will be between 58 and 59". If you order a custom flemish string, I'd go with 58.5"--you can twist it up or let it out (flemish anyway) if need be. Endless, I'd go 59" and twist it up if needed.
Chad
A new string would be a good idea--it's cheap, and may keep you or your bow from getting damaged if the old one were to fail. You can use endless or flemish, just be sure it's dacron (B-50 or B-500). Depending on how you like it set up, string length will be between 58 and 59". If you order a custom flemish string, I'd go with 58.5"--you can twist it up or let it out (flemish anyway) if need be. Endless, I'd go 59" and twist it up if needed.
Chad




