1) What is target panic?

2) How long should arrows be? I guess I'm asking how much arrow should stick out from the riser. Also, can u add extra length and maybe heavier points to offset arrows that might be too heavy? I am shooting 2117 with 125 points with a 55# @ 28" recurve. I have the arrows at 30" not including the points. arrow flight seems to be good. with 100 grain tips they hit with the arrow sticking out form the target to the right when I shot them without feathers.

#1 Target Panic is hard to explain (for me anyhow), but a miserable experience. I'd heard about it for years, but just couldn't understand it until I had a round with it. For some folks, it causes you to be unable to come to anchor when you are shooting at a particular spot--you might be able to anchor with no problem at all if you aren't shooting at anything, but can't do it on an actual shot--release before you ever get there. Some can't focus on a spot, some can't release the string, etc. For me, I couldn't do anything right. It really hurt my confidence and ability to focus, and I think I had a very mild case (lasted about 6 months). I know of one fellow that was an excellent shot, but I reckon he's quit alltogether due to TP. Hopefully you will never find out just what it feels l ike.

#2 At least long enough to avoid cutting yourself with a broadhead. If the extra length doesn't bother you, I wouldn't worry about it. It sounds like you will be overspined with the 125 grain points if you cut them off (assuming you are a right handed shooter, they are showing overspined with the 100 grained points).

Chad

Target panic is a mental block that steals control of the shot away from you. As Chad said, it can take many different forms. For at least 5 years, I had the first version of TP in Chad's description. It wasn't too bad at first, but it got worse and worse month after month until last summer. It got so I was almost afraid to go out on the 3D course with the guys. It was so damnably frustrating I was on the verge of quitting archery altogether. Finally discovered that my target panic was being caused by a physical ailment (crapped out shoulder) and when I switched to left handed the TP was immediately gone. Made me wish I'd talked to my doctor years before. So, target panic IS always a mental problem, but it can be caused by underlying physical problems.

I've been shooting 32.5" 2117's w/125 gn tips from a 50# @ 32" recurve, so I think the 2117's you've got are at least 10 pounds overspined for you. If you can, try and get ahold of a few 2016's and 2018's in the length you need and give them a try. I'd bet either size will zip along perfectly for you, but one might be a tad better than the other.

if u shoot 2117's with 50# at 32.5" with 125 grain tips, would it not work for me to shoot 2117's with 30" arrows with 150 grain tips, with a 55# recurve?

I also cosidered egtting some carbon arrows, size 250 that com ready with feathers. I just don't have the tools to cut them off. How do tips work with carbon arrows? do you need inserts?

150 gn tips would help the spine problem, certainly, but the only way to find out how much help they'd be is to try them. You might half to go all the way to 190's to straighten out your arrow flight. When it comes time for new arrows though, I really think you should go to a different size.

Carbon arrows do use inserts. You have to have a high speed abrasive wheel to cut carbon cleanly. Some guys have made their own cutting fixture using a Dremel tool for their carbons. If you cut them yourself, you need to wear a mask while cutting to keep the dust out of your lungs. Also, I've had problems with carbon arrows being too light for my bows. Even my recurves are loud and have handshock/vibration with unweighted carbons. If you go carbon, I'd recommend getting some Carbon Express weight tubes. I've been greatly unimpressed with the other weighting systems I've seen.

I've gone to strictly cedar arrows again. The only tools you need for cedar is a pocket knife and a tapering tool. I've got a line strung up on the patio. After I taper my shafts, I hang 'em up on that line by the taper with clothespins and spray a few coats of polyurethane on 'em. Or you can get a regular can and wipe the poly on with a rag. I've been shooting wood arrows, at least off and on, since I started out in the 50's and never have dipped a single one.

I lose a lot more arrows than I break, so woodies are cheaper for me.

is it the extra drawlength that makes the 2117's work well in your revurve?
Also, I'm a little worried about wood arrows. I might get into that later. I found some easton gamegetters 2018's @ 30'' for 45 bucks. I might try those.

Yep, it's the draw length. If you were to plot out the force draw curve graphs for my 50 pounds at 32" draw vs your 55 pounds at 28", you'd see that I'm actually storing a good bit more energy into the bow than you are, even though you're drawing more poundage. Also, my power stroke is longer, so I'm getting that stored energy powering my arrow longer than you. That's why I have to have the heavier spine arrows. I can't shoot 2018's unless I'm shooting a 40 pound bow.

are 2018's signifigantly less stiff than 2117's? the spine walls are thicker right, just with a smaller diameter arrow?