Joe

Yes it does have a lil Reflex / Deflex to it huh ! I got the design from Dale Stahl.... He has been coaching me.....and gave me the form pattern - we traded off - He is building a duplicate of the CNC Router I designed - a large 4X8' machine.... so we are exchanging help.

Question for Bowyers - How do you guys like marking your centerline, and then marking the limbs ?? Im looking for all my options because I have to work around a couple of boo-boo' s.... and trying to get the most of the bow afterwards.....

Thanks guys

What I did was first determine what was the max. limb width possible on each limb. Since often a lamination may have slid out of place a tad. I marked a line at each side of the limb(by the tip end of the limb) where I' d have to sand down to for the widest limb possible(determined by how well my laminations were lined up). I measured the distance between these lines to find out which limb I would end up with the least width. I then put a mark dead center between the lines on this limb. I got the bow to lay down on its side, as level as possible,(I had to sand some hardened glue drops off) on a very flat level surface. I then took a block of wood and drilled a hole in it so a black marker " sharpie" fit in the hole tightly and straight. I then planed the block of wood down so the felt tip of the pen was dead on to mark I had on the dead center of the narrowest limb. Then I slid the block of wood across marking a line the entire length of the bow. This I used as my center. I then laid the limb pattern on the new center line and marked the limb to where I wanted to sand down to. I' m by no means an expert at this, but this is how I did it. But since a few of my laminations slid a bit, my limbs ended up being a bit narrower than I wanted, hence the bow is a good 5 pounds lighter than I wanted. But its a nice shooting bow.
Dan