arrow for recurve ?
10-30-2003, 06:48 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location:
Posts: 47
arrow for recurve ?
Looking for a good and cheap source for arrows. I have a Pearson Raider 7350. The numbers on the side read 58" 50x- 28" . I draw it fine just have' nt shot it in years. I need a good rest, good arrows, and a new glove.The bow and string is basically all I have and I want to get back to shooting it. Surely there is someone on this website that can tell me exactly what to get without having to shop around. Thanx for any help.
10-30-2003, 07:13 PM
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: California
Posts: 600
RE: arrow for recurve ?
Need a little more information. What' s your draw length with the bow? Do you want to go with wood, aluminum or carbon? Did you want to go with an elevated rest or shoot off of the shelf? I don' t use a glove, so can' t really offer up any ideas on that. You got a good quiver? Geez, I' m a lot of help, eh? LOL.
10-30-2003, 07:18 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location:
Posts: 47
RE: arrow for recurve ?
Actually you are. I draw about 28" -28.5" . Was thinking aluminum. Off the shelf If it can be done accurately. And how in the world do you not use a glove? do you use some type of release or do you have a serious callous problem?
10-30-2003, 09:43 PM
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: California
Posts: 600
RE: arrow for recurve ?
LOL, I use a tab. Shot with one for years, even with my training wheels. 
I' m assuming that you have had the bow examined by someone that knows wood bows to make sure that the limbs aren' t twisted (easy to fix usually) or if the bow is starting to delaminate (laminations coming unglued), which makes it a wall hanger. If not, I' d highly recommend it. Make sure that the string isn' t starting to fray and that it' s well waxed.
If the shelf on your bow is radiused, you may not need to use anything under the rug. If it' s flat, you will want to use a piece of toothpick or similar under it to give the arrow a little more clearance. As far as a good cheap rug, the soft side of velcro works great. I use sealskin on my bows now, but when I wear that out, I' m going with self adhesive velcro. For the striker plate I prefer to use soft buckskin. I cut it in a shield shape and use barge cement to attach it to the riser of the bow. I place a small and narrow piece of toothpick behind it.
XX75s can be had the most reasonable. Anywhere from 25.00 a dozen up for bare shafts, depending on where you find them and the size you need. Finished arrows will probably be twice that or a little more. I make up my own, so am not up to par on arrow prices. Do not let a shop use the Easton chart to determine which arrows will work best for your bow. The Easton chart is useless for sticks, even though they reference recurves in the chart. As far as size, with your 28" draw, you' re drawing the whole 50# or just a little more. You' ll need an inch extra length if you plan on hunting with the shafts. So, if you' re drawing 28 1/2" , you' ll need a 29 1/2" or 30" arrow. I am a big fan of the 2016 shaft, which at 30" BOP, would spine at 50-55# and would weight right around 500g including a 125g point. You' ll want feather fletching. I use 5" shield cuts fletched left helical, which requires left wing feathers. Right wing would be fletched right helical. Nock fit to your string is critical. There are several nocks out there that' ll work on the shaft you decide on, but the serving on your string may not allow some available choices a proper fit. If it were me, I' d order another string for the bow and have it served for the Classic Index nock. That way you can order your arrows nocked in the classic and have a very good nock fit. But, that' s just me.
Hope this helps. More of the good folks here will offer up their advice, I' m sure.
I' m assuming that you have had the bow examined by someone that knows wood bows to make sure that the limbs aren' t twisted (easy to fix usually) or if the bow is starting to delaminate (laminations coming unglued), which makes it a wall hanger. If not, I' d highly recommend it. Make sure that the string isn' t starting to fray and that it' s well waxed.
If the shelf on your bow is radiused, you may not need to use anything under the rug. If it' s flat, you will want to use a piece of toothpick or similar under it to give the arrow a little more clearance. As far as a good cheap rug, the soft side of velcro works great. I use sealskin on my bows now, but when I wear that out, I' m going with self adhesive velcro. For the striker plate I prefer to use soft buckskin. I cut it in a shield shape and use barge cement to attach it to the riser of the bow. I place a small and narrow piece of toothpick behind it.
XX75s can be had the most reasonable. Anywhere from 25.00 a dozen up for bare shafts, depending on where you find them and the size you need. Finished arrows will probably be twice that or a little more. I make up my own, so am not up to par on arrow prices. Do not let a shop use the Easton chart to determine which arrows will work best for your bow. The Easton chart is useless for sticks, even though they reference recurves in the chart. As far as size, with your 28" draw, you' re drawing the whole 50# or just a little more. You' ll need an inch extra length if you plan on hunting with the shafts. So, if you' re drawing 28 1/2" , you' ll need a 29 1/2" or 30" arrow. I am a big fan of the 2016 shaft, which at 30" BOP, would spine at 50-55# and would weight right around 500g including a 125g point. You' ll want feather fletching. I use 5" shield cuts fletched left helical, which requires left wing feathers. Right wing would be fletched right helical. Nock fit to your string is critical. There are several nocks out there that' ll work on the shaft you decide on, but the serving on your string may not allow some available choices a proper fit. If it were me, I' d order another string for the bow and have it served for the Classic Index nock. That way you can order your arrows nocked in the classic and have a very good nock fit. But, that' s just me.
Hope this helps. More of the good folks here will offer up their advice, I' m sure.
10-31-2003, 06:44 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location:
Posts: 47
RE: arrow for recurve ?
So the xx75, 2016, 30" ,feathers, 125gr. tip. I knew someone else could make more sense than me out of that chart. The only thing I' ve ever shot in this bow before is whatever they had on sale at walmart and now I want whats right for it. When I looked at the chart it said 2216 for my bow, whats the difference?
10-31-2003, 08:02 AM
#6
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: California
Posts: 600
RE: arrow for recurve ?
They recommend a 30" 2016 for a 30# bow, so it' s looking like they are overspined by about 20#.
Another question, is your 28-28 1/2 draw with your compound? If so, you could lose up to an inch of draw going to the recurve, but that isn' t always the case. It' s a personal thing. I lost an inch going from wheels to recurve and another 1/2" going to longbow. Also, it dawned on me that the stated bow weight was 50+, which mean that it actually can pull up to 53# @ 28" . If there is any doubt about the draw length and weight of bow at your draw, have your draw length measured on the bow and have it weighed at that measurment. I say this because if your draw is only 27" , you would probably want to go to other sized arrows, like the 1916, which spines 50-55 @ 28" length. Again, this is what I' d do if I were starting up shooting recurves.
I' m sure that someone else will chime in and offer up some of their ideas for you too. Sometimes it takes a few ideas to come up with a good course of action. Have a great day.
Another question, is your 28-28 1/2 draw with your compound? If so, you could lose up to an inch of draw going to the recurve, but that isn' t always the case. It' s a personal thing. I lost an inch going from wheels to recurve and another 1/2" going to longbow. Also, it dawned on me that the stated bow weight was 50+, which mean that it actually can pull up to 53# @ 28" . If there is any doubt about the draw length and weight of bow at your draw, have your draw length measured on the bow and have it weighed at that measurment. I say this because if your draw is only 27" , you would probably want to go to other sized arrows, like the 1916, which spines 50-55 @ 28" length. Again, this is what I' d do if I were starting up shooting recurves.
I' m sure that someone else will chime in and offer up some of their ideas for you too. Sometimes it takes a few ideas to come up with a good course of action. Have a great day.
10-31-2003, 08:19 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location:
Posts: 47
RE: arrow for recurve ?
First off I dont understand these " spines" so that does me no good. you might as well print that in greek, I' d understand just as much. second the 28" -28.5" is with this bow. my compound is 29" plus a string loop.
10-31-2003, 10:43 AM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: arrow for recurve ?
Huntmaster, go to:
www.eastonarchery.com/products
Under ' Shaft Selectors' click on Legacy. Then just plug in the numbers they ask for and it will spit out a shaft size for you to try. I' ve found the Legacy chart a LOT closer than the standard charts when it comes to getting the right size for a recurve. You might have to try one size stiffer or one size weaker to get exactly the right arrow for you, but you' re going to at least be in the ballpark.
-OR-
For the past six weeks or so, I' ve been shooting some Carbon Express Terminator Selects that JeffB sent me to try out. I am very impressed with them. They are carbon composite arrows, like the old Graphlex arrows from the late 70' s. They shoot great and have some good weight to them, just as heavy as my aluminum arrows. They' ve got a 15 pound spine range and they' re sized according to draw weight (the ones I use are 6075 - spined for bows between 60 and 75 pounds). Since you' ll probably shoot a 29-30" arrow, just pick the size that brackets your draw weight.
www.eastonarchery.com/products
Under ' Shaft Selectors' click on Legacy. Then just plug in the numbers they ask for and it will spit out a shaft size for you to try. I' ve found the Legacy chart a LOT closer than the standard charts when it comes to getting the right size for a recurve. You might have to try one size stiffer or one size weaker to get exactly the right arrow for you, but you' re going to at least be in the ballpark.
-OR-
For the past six weeks or so, I' ve been shooting some Carbon Express Terminator Selects that JeffB sent me to try out. I am very impressed with them. They are carbon composite arrows, like the old Graphlex arrows from the late 70' s. They shoot great and have some good weight to them, just as heavy as my aluminum arrows. They' ve got a 15 pound spine range and they' re sized according to draw weight (the ones I use are 6075 - spined for bows between 60 and 75 pounds). Since you' ll probably shoot a 29-30" arrow, just pick the size that brackets your draw weight.
10-31-2003, 11:49 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location:
Posts: 47
RE: arrow for recurve ?
Thanks arthur I was also wondering about carbons, thats what I shoot in my compound. You talk about getting weaker or stiffer spines and thats what I meant by I dont understand them. What is stiffer, a higher number or lower number? the chart I looked at suggested 2314,2215,2216,2117 shafts. Whats the difference? You guys suggest a 2016. I' ll have to take your word for it because these numbers really make no sense to me. The carbons I shoot are in bow weight brackets and weight per inch. With them its easy you just get the right weight group and make sure your total arrow is heavy enough for what you are doing.
10-31-2003, 01:52 PM
#10
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: arrow for recurve ?
Well, you' re asking one whale of a question! I' ll try to give you a beginning primer.
' Spine' , as we archers use the word, means how much a given arrow will flex under a 2 pound weight placed in the center of the shaft. Over the years, they' ve figured out that an arrow that deflects .XXX of an inch will shoot well out of a bow that draws ZZ pounds. The less it deflects, the higher draw weight it will handle.
I' d like to get off the main point here and sidetrack a bit.
We really use the word ' spine' loosely and incorrectly. If you check an arrow at different points around it' s diameter, you' ll find one spot where it checks stiffer than at any other point around the shaft. That is the arrow' s actual spine, using the strict technical definition of the term. Actually, when everyone used wood arrows, we did use the word correctly because we always tested an arrow' s deflection across the stiffest portion of the arrow, which really was the arrow' s spine.
Anyway... back to the business at hand.
When you go from, say, a 100 grain tip to a 150 grain tip, you' ll need a stiffer arrow to carry it. And vice versa. If you shoot a 33" arrow at 50 pounds, you' ll need a stiffer arrow than someone else that shoots a 28" arrow at 50 pounds. You can adjust spine by using different points and cutting arrows to different lengths. An arrow that reacts weak in spine when you shoot it with a 125 grain point might shoot great with a 100 grain. Or, if you have enough arrow, you can try cutting off an inch and see how much it stiffens up. IF it acts too stiff, then you can try a heavier tip.
Things can get pretty complicated if you let it, but as long as you understand those few basic things about spine, then you' ll do just fine.
As far as the sizes on aluminum arrows, the sizes have absolutely nothing to do with spine. The first two numbers are the arrow' s diameter in 1/64ths of an inch. The second two numbers are the arrow' s wall thickness in 1/1000ths of an inch. So, a 2216 is 22/64ths inch in diameter with a .016" wall thickness. Generally speaking, the diameter of the arrow relates more to spine and the wall thickness, even though it does have an affect on spine, it relates more to durability and weight.
But there are many different aluminums with different diameters and different wall thicknesses that overlap in spine. Say your bow shoots 2018' s well, but you want a bit faster arrow. You look at the charts and see that the 2213 is in the same spine range as your 2018' s, but weighs some 80 grains less. The tradeoff you make for a little faster arrow is in durability, because the 2213 is thinner walled than the 2018.
Carbons are a different beast altogether, as I guess you' ve already found out. Some mark their sizes by the spine range they cover, like GoldTips and those Carbon Express Terminators I like. Some, like Beman, size their arrows by their deflection. Others just seem to pull a number out of thin air and slap it on.
Hope that clears up some of your confusion.
' Spine' , as we archers use the word, means how much a given arrow will flex under a 2 pound weight placed in the center of the shaft. Over the years, they' ve figured out that an arrow that deflects .XXX of an inch will shoot well out of a bow that draws ZZ pounds. The less it deflects, the higher draw weight it will handle.
I' d like to get off the main point here and sidetrack a bit.
We really use the word ' spine' loosely and incorrectly. If you check an arrow at different points around it' s diameter, you' ll find one spot where it checks stiffer than at any other point around the shaft. That is the arrow' s actual spine, using the strict technical definition of the term. Actually, when everyone used wood arrows, we did use the word correctly because we always tested an arrow' s deflection across the stiffest portion of the arrow, which really was the arrow' s spine.
Anyway... back to the business at hand.
When you go from, say, a 100 grain tip to a 150 grain tip, you' ll need a stiffer arrow to carry it. And vice versa. If you shoot a 33" arrow at 50 pounds, you' ll need a stiffer arrow than someone else that shoots a 28" arrow at 50 pounds. You can adjust spine by using different points and cutting arrows to different lengths. An arrow that reacts weak in spine when you shoot it with a 125 grain point might shoot great with a 100 grain. Or, if you have enough arrow, you can try cutting off an inch and see how much it stiffens up. IF it acts too stiff, then you can try a heavier tip.
Things can get pretty complicated if you let it, but as long as you understand those few basic things about spine, then you' ll do just fine.
As far as the sizes on aluminum arrows, the sizes have absolutely nothing to do with spine. The first two numbers are the arrow' s diameter in 1/64ths of an inch. The second two numbers are the arrow' s wall thickness in 1/1000ths of an inch. So, a 2216 is 22/64ths inch in diameter with a .016" wall thickness. Generally speaking, the diameter of the arrow relates more to spine and the wall thickness, even though it does have an affect on spine, it relates more to durability and weight.
But there are many different aluminums with different diameters and different wall thicknesses that overlap in spine. Say your bow shoots 2018' s well, but you want a bit faster arrow. You look at the charts and see that the 2213 is in the same spine range as your 2018' s, but weighs some 80 grains less. The tradeoff you make for a little faster arrow is in durability, because the 2213 is thinner walled than the 2018.
Carbons are a different beast altogether, as I guess you' ve already found out. Some mark their sizes by the spine range they cover, like GoldTips and those Carbon Express Terminators I like. Some, like Beman, size their arrows by their deflection. Others just seem to pull a number out of thin air and slap it on.
Hope that clears up some of your confusion.