LOL, I use a tab. Shot with one for years, even with my training wheels.

I' m assuming that you have had the bow examined by someone that knows wood bows to make sure that the limbs aren' t twisted (easy to fix usually) or if the bow is starting to delaminate (laminations coming unglued), which makes it a wall hanger. If not, I' d highly recommend it. Make sure that the string isn' t starting to fray and that it' s well waxed.

If the shelf on your bow is radiused, you may not need to use anything under the rug. If it' s flat, you will want to use a piece of toothpick or similar under it to give the arrow a little more clearance. As far as a good cheap rug, the soft side of velcro works great. I use sealskin on my bows now, but when I wear that out, I' m going with self adhesive velcro. For the striker plate I prefer to use soft buckskin. I cut it in a shield shape and use barge cement to attach it to the riser of the bow. I place a small and narrow piece of toothpick behind it.

XX75s can be had the most reasonable. Anywhere from 25.00 a dozen up for bare shafts, depending on where you find them and the size you need. Finished arrows will probably be twice that or a little more. I make up my own, so am not up to par on arrow prices. Do not let a shop use the Easton chart to determine which arrows will work best for your bow. The Easton chart is useless for sticks, even though they reference recurves in the chart. As far as size, with your 28" draw, you' re drawing the whole 50# or just a little more. You' ll need an inch extra length if you plan on hunting with the shafts. So, if you' re drawing 28 1/2" , you' ll need a 29 1/2" or 30" arrow. I am a big fan of the 2016 shaft, which at 30" BOP, would spine at 50-55# and would weight right around 500g including a 125g point. You' ll want feather fletching. I use 5" shield cuts fletched left helical, which requires left wing feathers. Right wing would be fletched right helical. Nock fit to your string is critical. There are several nocks out there that' ll work on the shaft you decide on, but the serving on your string may not allow some available choices a proper fit. If it were me, I' d order another string for the bow and have it served for the Classic Index nock. That way you can order your arrows nocked in the classic and have a very good nock fit. But, that' s just me.

Hope this helps. More of the good folks here will offer up their advice, I' m sure.