spevin

Hello, I decided to try bowhunting for elk in western oregon. I have a ben pearson 706 50# recurve. Shot carp with it and did alot of roving.Am comfortable with bow. Almost went the compound direction but to be honest I like the simplicity of the recurve, instinctive shooting, and I dont want to spend money on a new bow.I bought my bow from a friends dad for 5 bucks.My question is what is a good broadhead to use ,how heavy? Also what about arrows, I know my length but thats about it. Thanks!

BCRules

I would try 2018's with 125-200gr heads for elk. The wieght of the broadhead will depend on the tune of the bow. In other words, a modern fast bow with fastflight will usually tune with 125gr head, but an older bow with B50string might require heavier head.

I like magnus two blade heads. They sharpen to a razor. You want cut on contact no matter what. If you need a heavier head, I use 200gr muzzy phantoms.

Bernie P.

I would use the heaviest aluminum or carbon shafts suitable along with Magnus 125gr 2 blade heads.Easton' 2018 should work well as far as aluminum goes.Check their charts for carbons.I used 2018 along with Tru Taper adapters/Magnus heads with my longbow before switching to carbons.The carbons I'm using now are no longer available.I'm not sure offhand what size would be equivalent.Good luck!

spevin

Thanks gentelman your a big help!What about fletching style, right hand helical/offset or straight? Can I use plastic vanes or do I need feather?

BCRules

For any "shoot off the shelf" bow, you want feathers. It doesn't matter if RW or LW. Only time RW or LW matters, is shooting off the hand. And then you want LW.

I would suggest 5" shield feathers. Banana works too. I used to use 5.5" but they are little large. For trad bows, I like a strong helical. Definately not straight.

spevin

This is what I've came up with so far.2018 easton aluminum 30" shaft (my size),right hand helical,5" feather fletched.I am going with magnus 2 blade stinger 125gr.Any advice fine tuning my choice's much appreciated!

Bernie P.

Bare shafting has always worked great for me with all my trad bows.In case you're not familiar with this start with the shaft an inch or two longer than you need and your nock point set a tad high.Shoot it into a soft target from about 20yds using the same weight field point as your broadheads.Hay bales work great for this.If you see the shaft flying a little nock high/right cut about 1/4" from the shaft until you see it shoots pretty much straight down the middle/nock high.If it shoots nock left that means it's a little stiff.Either go to a weaker spine or start over with the same spine shaft a little longer.After you get the spine right creep the nock point down a hair at a time until the nock high goes away.A "slight" amount of nock left is ok and some folks cant get rid of nock high entirely.Good luck!