sniper65

Iv read on line that you dont need a heat box when you use Urac 185, would not heating it have any negative effect on my bow?

bigcountry

According to the guru Dean Torges, no. But you want it over 70F they say. I have been using some heat in a drying box.

sniper65

thanks BC so i should be ok if i just let it set inside my house

bigcountry

I would put it in a warm room. 80F should be fine. If you got an extra bathroom, you can put it in there with a small heater. It will set up faster.

Kent on here (burniegoeasy) has more experience with it.

chep

This post is old and you might have had your bow already finished, however I will still add my experiences with Urac 185 because someone else may read it.

I have used Urac 185 on several longbow projects and never used a heat box. It's in the winter when I usually embark on archery projects when the temperatures are 50 degrees outside. Normally I glue it all up and let it sit for a day or two outside in the garage or at my friend's barn. No heat. Works just fine without all the heat box stuff.

burniegoeasily

Chep
What are you going to use Urac 185 for? If it is wood to wood, I would not bother. I would just use titebond III. I like titebond III for all my wood bows and have used it for years with no problem. If you plan on using it for glass to wood, I would not suggest it. I know some have used it, but I do not like it with glass. Ive had bad experiences with the only two,glass lam bows Ive used it on. For glass applications I would use smoothon 40, or another heat cure epoxy similar. Ive been using aeromarine 400 for years now and love it. Much cheaper than smoothon and the exact same thing. If a heat box concerns you, you can do as Mark suggested, put it in a garage closet with a heater, or put it in a car parked in the sun on a hot day, use a stove pipe and a heat gun, build an easy heat box out of foam, insulation board and three 100watt light bulbs etc. etc. The heat box issue is not that big of a deal. Just think of a way you can place the bow somewhere that you can heat it up for about 7 to 10 hours at around 140 degrees or more. Heat cure epoxies will soften if ever exposed to temps above that which it was cured. So you just want to cure it above any temp the bow might experience. I actually cook my bows at 170. An average car, here in Texas will reach about 120 when parked in the sun. So around these parts, a bow needs to be cooked above 120. I cook mine hotter just because the epoxy cures a little quicker and it insures that there will be no softening of the epoxy anywhere.