burniegoeasily

Looken good. I see you found yellow heart. Much more even color than osage with out all the crazy nots and dark grain mixed in.

Kanga

Kent.

I have had the Yellow Heart for a while. I liked the look of the Ossage on the limbs I made for Chads bow

burniegoeasily

Osage does look good. I just have problems finding it without the dark streaks through it.

Kanga

Mate.

Personally I think those dark lines give it character

Kanga

One other thing I can do before the glass and boo get here is make the wedges.

I decided to go with Leopardwood for them.

First off we need to mark out the wedge shape.





Then on the belt sander with a block behind the wedge sand down to the line.



The block comes in handy at the tapered end, to give support to the wood because this end has to be paper thin.



Now the waiting game starts for the glass and boo.

bowman15

See, this is why I like watching these so much. I had no clear idea how you make the wedges so thin.

Kanga

Very carefully

The last ones I made got knocked off my work bench.

And landed thin side down needless to say I had to make 2 more

Kanga

Well the glass and Boo are in time to get back to work.

First of all I need to clear some crap off the work bench



With that done place some old newspapers on the bech to protect it from glue later on.



See newspapers come in handy apart from lining the bird cage

Place the Glass rough side down and put blue painters tape on the shiny side.



Then mark the center line on both pieces of glass.



Then place all the lams into the heat box for an hour to make sure there is no moisture left in them.



For this bow I need 2 x.040 clear glass, 2 x .060 parrallel Bamboo, 1 x .060 Parrallel lam ( Makore) and 1 x .114 taper ( Yellow Heart)

While they are in the box time to prepare the form.

Give the form and metal pressure strip a good coating of Paste wax.





Then place some Saran wrap over the form this will catch the excess glue and stop the limb from becoming part of the form which will make it a biatch to tiller



With about 15 minutes before I take out the lams I put the epoxy into the box to warm it up which helps a lot come mixing time, but if you get it too hot it will drasticly shorten the pot life.

Kanga

Ok the lams are out of the box time for the glue up.

First lay the lams in order that your going to use them.



Once you have mixed the epoxy.

Spread a layer on the glass and yellow heart.



Then flip the yellow heart onto the glass always going glue to glue.



Next put glue on the yellow heart and first of the boo and flip the boo onto the yellow heart.



This is far as I got with the pics till I take the gloves off, dont want to get glue all over the camera.

But keep applying epoxy and flipping the lams on top of each other till you get to the wedge.

Apply epoxy to the flat side of the wedge and place it flat side down on the 2nd layer of boo.

Then do the Makore and final piece of glass.

Then carefully move the stack over to the form and place the wedge end hard up against the stop peg.
Now put on the metal pressure strip and with filament tape pull everything tight against the form.



You will see some of the epoxy ooze out.



At this stage place another layer of saran wrap over the lams.



Then the air hose.



The top of the form and secure it to the bottom.



Fill the hose to 60 psi.

Now is the time to check and make sure the lams have not moved, if they have you have to let the air out, straighten them and carefully refill the hose.

If everything is ok then place the form into the heat box for 4 hours.



Now it's time to relax have a cuppa and take a nap

Kanga

The first limb is now out of the heat box.



As you can see a lot of excess epoxy got squeezed out.

I will clean it up in the morning while the other limb is in the box curing.