new bowhunter need advice
01-20-2003, 09:20 PM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: woodbury CT woodbury ct
Posts: 221
new bowhunter need advice
my uncle just gave me another one of his old bows, it;s a longbow of about 75-80lbs, i really dig stickbows, i have a recurve of about 55lbs that i shoot good, i;ve never hunted anything other than coffee cans and dirt clods with a bow, i need arrows, i;m thinkin easton, broadheads i like the full blade ones, and what do i use for a quiver, i used to just shove a few arrows in the ground but that was with field points and i aint doin that with broadheads. i;m not much of a treestand fan, i like to hunt from ground blinds or stillhunt.
do i need to wax the bowstring? and what about it lookin like a bunch of strings tied together than one solid rope, is that ok?
hope this made sense to you cause i;m already confused
pauly
"smile, life could be worse.. i could be datin your daughter."
do i need to wax the bowstring? and what about it lookin like a bunch of strings tied together than one solid rope, is that ok?
hope this made sense to you cause i;m already confused
pauly
"smile, life could be worse.. i could be datin your daughter."
01-21-2003, 12:28 AM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Apple Valley CA USA
Posts: 128
RE: new bowhunter need advice
Hi Pauly,
WOW, that was a LOT of questions you have. All good ones. First of all, a bow that you can COMFORTABLY draw without undue fatigue after 12-24 shoots is a far more important choice than a heavy draw weight. There is nothing wrong starting with a heavy poundage bow IF you can do so without strain, but it would be much better for you to start with a bow much LIGHTER than you can draw, enabling you more shots to develop proper form while you learn the basics.
Buy a copy of either G. Fred Asbell's "Instinctive Shooting" or Byron Ferguson's "Become The Arrow". Both are good choices to learn the basics of traditional archery and whet your appetite for doing so successfully.
Measure your actual draw length and actual poundage when you are at full draw. This will be the best indication of which arrows you will need. If you don't have a bow scale, then simply add 2-3 lbs for each inch OVER the poundage and draw length marked on the bow, or subtract the same for each inch under the marked weight and length. This should get you close to a proper arrow selection.
Most of all, be patient as you learn. Enjoy the journey that tradtional archery is. Developing proper form will take lots of practice, and it is FUN.
YBIC,
Dave ><>
Matt 6:33,34/Rev 3:20
WOW, that was a LOT of questions you have. All good ones. First of all, a bow that you can COMFORTABLY draw without undue fatigue after 12-24 shoots is a far more important choice than a heavy draw weight. There is nothing wrong starting with a heavy poundage bow IF you can do so without strain, but it would be much better for you to start with a bow much LIGHTER than you can draw, enabling you more shots to develop proper form while you learn the basics.
Buy a copy of either G. Fred Asbell's "Instinctive Shooting" or Byron Ferguson's "Become The Arrow". Both are good choices to learn the basics of traditional archery and whet your appetite for doing so successfully.
Measure your actual draw length and actual poundage when you are at full draw. This will be the best indication of which arrows you will need. If you don't have a bow scale, then simply add 2-3 lbs for each inch OVER the poundage and draw length marked on the bow, or subtract the same for each inch under the marked weight and length. This should get you close to a proper arrow selection.
Most of all, be patient as you learn. Enjoy the journey that tradtional archery is. Developing proper form will take lots of practice, and it is FUN.
YBIC,
Dave ><>
Matt 6:33,34/Rev 3:20
