arkansasbowhunter

hey guys. I have been shooting my hoyt 50lb recurve for a year now and recently switched arrows to a gold tip 3555, 170 grain brass insert and 100 grain point. the bow spined them great at 10 yards with arrows entering straight no kick. they are full length with 5 inch feathers.

well, I fletched them up and began shooting them. I consistently shoot them about 6 inches to the right. I have nothing but a very thin piece of mole skin on the riser part of my bow so I can't go anymore right like you would a compound. What gives. I can't figure this out. I used to tip shoot and put the tip on what I wanted to hit and blammo it was there.

my old arrow was a 2114 29 inch arrow with 5 inch feathers.

any help?

missedagain

I am not the best one to give advice, but here goes. The 2114 has a spine of 64#. I am tempted to think that with all the front end weight you have on the Gold Tip that you might have made the spine to weak.

There is nothing wrong with a heavy front end unless you create a weak spined arrow in the process.

JimPic

The 3555 also spines around 64# and with that much weight up front,it's gonna show weak.If you want that much weight up front,go to a 5575.If you want to use the 3555's with that much up front,you could use nock inserts and add weight on the back to stiffen it up

Arthur P

I concur about the spine issue. However there is a little trick you can try that's less expensive than replacing your arrows. Put a thicker side plate on the bow. That will make the bow less centershot and the softer spine will match up better with it. It'll take some trial and error to get the thickness just right, but it'll be worth the effort.

I would also go to 4" feathers for carbons. Until you replace the feathers though, try orienting your cock feather straight up, to make the hen feather pass through the angle between the side plate and arrow shelf. That might help keep the feathers from bouncing the tail of the arrow to the left when it leaves the bow. In fact, I would try this even before replacing the side plate. Just in case.

arkansasbowhunter

thanks for the advice. I already have the cock feather passing b/t the side plate and the shelf plate.

i don't quite understand why the arrows spined right and flew like darts at the close range? I thought that is what they were supposed to do?

with an incorrect spined arrow fly that much to the right?

I just got that setup b/c the pro shop guy said thats is what he seen work real good for others. could I just shoot the 5575's with out the weight? or the 3555's I have without the wt?

JimPic

5575's spine around 74#.Without some weight on the end,they'll most likely be too stiff for your 50# bow.The 3555's would probably shoot well without the extra weight for you.If you want to get a heavy shaft without the extra frontal weight,try weight tubes or a heavy gauge weedeater line.If you're drawing 28",I wouldn't shoot below 400gr(8gr/lb)

arkansasbowhunter

okay went and tried this set up. 5575 arrow 32inc full length with 4 inch feathers, regular nock, 170 gr brass insert, 100 gr point. same set up as before but 5575. shot it thru paper and got bullet hole 2 x. with this arrow my foc is 18.75%. the arrow starts tilting off counter at 10inches. I tried computing my foc and it is above stated. should I try the arrow without the brass insert to improve my foc (i.e lower it)? I never messed with the foc so new with this too. I am going to shoot the 2 arrows at 20 yards and see how they perform, i.e my two 5575's I just got.

JimPic

If the arrows are flying true and hitting where you're looking,I'd leave well enough alone.Your arrows now have the weight and momentum needed for great penetration.

missedagain

Don't worry about foc with carbons. Doesn't seem to be a factor as it might with a compound. Some folks who shoot carbons have focs in the high 20% range without any problems.