Trad Bow newbie
#1
I honestly know nothing about Trad Bow shooting/hunting, but I want to get in to it. I have two recurves at home and I want to know what it would take to get either of them ready for shooting and hunting. I will try to get some more info and pics of them. But I guess what I want to know is, what do I look for in getting it stringed, what kind of sight (if any should I use), do I use a release or go fingers? That kind of stuff. I've hunted compound for a few years and I want to try using one of those recurves I have. Any help or info would great guys. Thanks!
#2
What kind of bows you got? there should be a bow name along with the poundage and An amo# for sting length....your best be would be to talk to LBR (Chad Weaver) throu this site or go to Recurves.com and drop him an email....He makes strings and can get you going....
the other things you've mentioned are personalpreference...Most people opt fora bare bow(no sights shooting off the arrow shelf) and a finger release via glove or tab.
You can get a shot off much quicker when you dont have to depend on a sight, the only thing you rely on is your brain and the bow/arrow itself....one of the biggest advantages of Traditional bows, When you become a proficient shooter.
the other things you've mentioned are personalpreference...Most people opt fora bare bow(no sights shooting off the arrow shelf) and a finger release via glove or tab.
You can get a shot off much quicker when you dont have to depend on a sight, the only thing you rely on is your brain and the bow/arrow itself....one of the biggest advantages of Traditional bows, When you become a proficient shooter.
#3
Thanks for the reply. Like I said I dont have a lot of info on the bows right now. They're at home and I'm at school. I have my mother bringing them down for me though. So this weekend sometime I can post some more info and a pic or two of the bows.
Another question, What kind of arrows (wood, carbon, aluminum) and broadheads would I shoot? Or is that something that is personal preference and bow related?
Another question, What kind of arrows (wood, carbon, aluminum) and broadheads would I shoot? Or is that something that is personal preference and bow related?
#4
If they have not been shot in a while, I'd have them inspected real good for cracks and possible twists. You may want to change the strings on them. LBR (Chad) will be able to set you up.
As far as types of arrows, it is personal. But in the beginning, I'd suggest using aluminums (you may break/loose a few). I still use the regular gamegetters and gamegetter II's (and I like to try my 70 yard shots
). I'd use arrows by Kelly's chart to at least get you started.
Since you're new, I'd try shooting fingers off the shelf. That would be the most traditional way. If you don't like it you could always switch.
Also if your bows are over about 50#'s at your draw, you may want to consider getting a used bow of lesser weight for a year or so. You don't want to be overbowed, especially when you start out.
As far as types of arrows, it is personal. But in the beginning, I'd suggest using aluminums (you may break/loose a few). I still use the regular gamegetters and gamegetter II's (and I like to try my 70 yard shots
). I'd use arrows by Kelly's chart to at least get you started. Since you're new, I'd try shooting fingers off the shelf. That would be the most traditional way. If you don't like it you could always switch.
Also if your bows are over about 50#'s at your draw, you may want to consider getting a used bow of lesser weight for a year or so. You don't want to be overbowed, especially when you start out.
#5
ORIGINAL: Alpha Capo
You can get a shot off much quicker when you dont have to depend on a sight,the only thing you rely on is your brain and the bow/arrow itself....
You can get a shot off much quicker when you dont have to depend on a sight,the only thing you rely on is your brain and the bow/arrow itself....
#6
Any arrows will do when starting out...as long as they are strait,the rule of thumb is 10 grains of total arrow weightper pound of draw on your bow, example 50#draw weight at say your drawlength is 28 inches, you would want at least a 29inch arrowwith a total weight of atleast 500 grains,you dont want to shoot an arrow much under that, heavier isO.K....dont worry about perfect arrow spineand dont get discouraged if you dont hit whatyour aiming atwhen starting, just concentrate on your form...then start shooting groups...and when you can do that ataround 15 yards...go ahead and experiment with different arrows/grain tips/bow tuningto get perfect flight....it can take some time.
id startwith a half dozen ofEaston GameGetters....
for hunting heads125grain-150 grain fixed blade, cut on contact head.
id startwith a half dozen ofEaston GameGetters....
for hunting heads125grain-150 grain fixed blade, cut on contact head.
#7
Thanks for the responses guys. I like the Easton gamegetters, thats what I shoot from my compound and we have a few dozen extras in the basement, so that works very conveniently. Any other advice ya'll can offer. What are some good broadheads. I like terminator 125's, but i cant find them anymore.
#8
ORIGINAL: txjourneyman
That is the part that makes it hard for me.
ORIGINAL: Alpha Capo
You can get a shot off much quicker when you dont have to depend on a sight,the only thing you rely on is your brain and the bow/arrow itself....
You can get a shot off much quicker when you dont have to depend on a sight,the only thing you rely on is your brain and the bow/arrow itself....


keep at it, you will get there.



