CT Bowhunter

I've been reading the forum for about 6 months and never could remember my password. Finally solved that problem.

I just want to say that you guys are evil<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>. I talked to Chad last week and purchased a Crusader. My wife could not understand why I needed a new bow, and a long bow at that. I've been shooting a compound for about 10 years and was bitten by the traditional bug this summer. This forum convinced me to buy the Crusader. I looked at at least 10 different boys and bowyers. I have to say that Chad (even though he's not the bowyer)was the most responsive and informative person I contacted.

Now for the help, I need to choose some arrows, both wood and aluminum. The set-up is as follows: Crusader 64&quot;, cocobola/Bolivian rosewood riser, yew limbs, Dynaflight string, 30.5&quot; draw length, 61 to 62 # at 30.5&quot;,(125 grain head).

Talking to Chad and RRA they suggested 80 to 85# cedar arrows at 31.5&quot;. Going to the Easton on-line arrow chart gives a wide variety of choices.

Legacy Chart (modern longbow)
31&quot; - 2117
32&quot; - 2216

Standard Easton Chart (recurve)
31&quot; - 2514 and 2317
32&quot; - 2419 and 2317

Help!

Lilhunter

give the 2216 a whirl for alums, spines out right up there with the group Chado was saying

The best you can do is order or buy some test shafts. Its unfortunate in the trad world but not all charts fit anyone! I would get some 75-80's, 80-85's and 85-90's. Pick up a copy of Byron Fergusons become the arrow, and read his tuning section. Its about the better ones I have seen out there getting into the nitty gritty. I do have some book from the UK coming though and I'll let ya know how they are.

pat daily

you can go to the Arrows by Kelly website and he has a very comprehensive list of arrow/bow matches or you can got to Sticks and Feathers website, his list is shorter but is a good place to start. You can email or call either of these two guys and they will load you up with info.

john nail

the 2117s should be about perfect. They will finish out arount 575gr (with 125gr point) and should be fine.

Kip

Lil, or one of you other knowledgable guys, why would he need an 80-85 spine when he's drawing 61-62#?

Im not trying to be a wise guy, I have a Crusader ordered as well. I thought that your spine would be close to your poundage, ie: A 55# bow would use 55-60 spine, or close to it. Is there something I am not seeing here?

JRW

Kip,

His 30.5&quot; draw will up the spine requirement, as will the probability of a Dyna97 string.

JRW

Kip

Thanks JRW. So arrows are spined for a set arrow length, and you add or subtract from there? Geeez, I got alot to learn.

Tuffcity

Kip,

the spine requirement is usually based on a 28&quot; draw, those of us with superior draw lengths<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> tend to skew the charts a little.

RC

CT Bowhunter

Thanks for the help. I just got the message from Chad that the Crusader will be sent out ASAP. I guess I'll be buying those arrows this weekend. I think I'll get a couple of 2117's and 2216's and see how they shoot. I also have some 2514's that I shoot from my &quot;other bow&quot;, that I'll try.

Being a novice tradional shooter do you think it's better and or cheaper to start out with the alum arrows, then once I stop shooting them into my wood backstop when I miss the bag target, change to wood?

CT Bowhunter

Forgot to mention that I'll post pictures as soon as the bow arrives. I might need help from you Pat. It was your evil pictures that helped push me over the edge!