Matthew V. (An outdoorsman)

Hey Guys! After settling on a recurve over a compound (Bowhunting forum, thanks for the help) I have to decide which one to get. I'm 16 and bowhunt alot for deer with a crossbow-Excalibur. I am definately willing to spend "a little extra" if it gets me that much more for a custom recurve. The thing is, how do I know which bowyer to go with? In the last issue of Traditional Bowhunter (an excellent magazine that really whet my appetite) I listed 38 custom recurve builders with websites. I was originally thinking of going with a Chek-mate Falcon but now I kinda might want something a little more expensive. Max I'm willing to spend is probably around $700. Can I go wrong with anybody around this price? I think from looking at all the websites and recurve designs, I've narrowed it to a Wes Wallace Custom, Acadia Woods, Cari-Bow Custom, Navajo, Cook's Mountain, Timberhawk Bows, or Shafer Silvertip. I'm gettin' a one piece. How do I choose? I don't have the option of going to any shoots yet. Do you have any experience with any of these bow builders.

Thanks alot for any help,

Matt

burniegoeasily

The best bow for me, might not be the best bow for you. LBR can give you some real good ideas. I shoot old bows. I use to use a Mamab, but ran over it. Last season I had to use my old 1977 herters. I have just recently found another 1965 modle herters that Ill be setting up for next season, but am still in the market for a new recurve. I use pearsons and PSE recurves for fishing. Its all in how well the bow fits you.

BobCo19-65

Hi Matthew, I remember you and I'm glad to see you over here.

Most of the bows you mentioned are very good bows, and they are top of the line. But check out these quotes form another thread:

Since you are 16, I am assuming you will proably have some growing to do. If you get a custom made at your draw and you do grow, there is a chance that at some point, your bow may begin to stack on you. For this reason and a few others, you may want to wait a few more years to look at these top of the line custom bows. Don't let the prices fool you too much. For instance I have a fewexpensive bows, but I also have Chek_Mate Kings Pawn on order. Not afraid at all of the quality after talking to owners and holding a few. Also, you will find that a lot of these bowyers have a long waiting list, some probably a year or so.

One big question, do you plan on using the bow this year. If yes, you will probably be a little too late to get a custom. In that case you could either go the used route (which in many cases a good one) or the off the counter route.

Do you know what your draw length is currently?

Whitehair

Hey Matt-
This is funny; My name is Matt, and I too am 16...small world LOL

You cant go wrong with any of todays custom bowyers, but, BobCo makes a good point. Many customs have a several month wait list. The over the counter bows are usually nice aswell, Id stick with Bears and Martins. MyBear longbow will shoot with many bows that costover twice its price.

If you havent ruled out a T/D, I would suggest one. That way, you could grow with the bow. You could get progressively heavier and longer draw limbs as you grow. If you go the T/D route, check out Bob Thomson of Zipper bows, he is a great guy to deal wth, and makes one amazing bow.

Can weget your draw weight and length?

Good luck!

LBR

It's hard to choose a custom bow starting out, because you don't yet know just what you like or don't like, what fits you best, what grip is most comfortable, etc. You can spend a whole lot of money and still wind up with a bow that doesn't fit.

The question here is, why? You need to answer this for yourself, not me. If you want a "status symbol" bow, you are going to have to spend a bit more than $700. If you want a bow that looks good, draws smooth, shoots fast, is stable and forgiving, and will kill animals (pending you do your part) you can still spend that much, but you sure don't have to.

You can go wrong even if you had $5,000 to burn. There are no magic bows. The main difference in the better bows/bowyers is the price range. Spending more will not guarantee you are getting the right bow. Take your time, get your hands on some bows, and figure out what works best for you. Get a few cheap used bows if you can--you can generally sell them later and get your money back, or keep them on hand for back-up or to introduce a friend to the sport. I wouldn't even recommend getting a Falcon yet, if you can find something cheaper to start out with. Personally, I rather have a customer that knows what they want. The reason being is if you don't know, it's a roll of the dice on whether or not you get what fits you best. If you get a bow that you aren't happy with, then you talk about it. On the other hand, if you know what you want, it makes it much easier to get the right bow--then you are happy with it, and you talk about it. Word of mouth is the best advertising, and happy customers spread the word. Unhappy customers do too, for the opposite effect.

What was this list based on? Have you done any research on quality, customer service, etc? I've shot a few of the ones listed, but the only one I'm really familiar with is Navajo. I would recommend Roy Hall in a heartbeat--excellent bows, great guy to deal with--BUT, it would be after you have an idea of what you want in a bow. Roy can't build "THE" bow for you when you can't tell him what you want.

Again, be patient. Check around your area--you probably have a neighbor that can help. Shoot some bows--figure out what feels good. Start out LIGHT--going too heavy will make you develop bad habits that are a devil to break. Don't worry about labels--bows aren't like a Tommy Hilfiger shirt or GUESS jeans that you just put on and show off. Folks will be much more impressed with you hitting the mark with a $50 bow than they will with you missing with a $1,000 bow. Stash the extra money for when you get a better idea of what to order--'course you will need some of it for arrows, quiver, armguard, tab, etc. etc. etc.

Chad

BobCo19-65

I like that quote a lot.

Matthew V. (An outdoorsman)

Draw length-between 27 and 27 1/2 in.
LBR-Our local archery shop supplies Chek-Mate, Navajo, Horne, so I got to pick them up and shoot a couple Chek-Mates in the 50-55 lb range. But the only problem is that I am a southpaw. There are very few bows that I can actually test first. That is why I am asking these questions. What did I base my list on? Design, handle size, looks, whether it is made in Canada, is it a Christian bowyer (I am a Christian, I'd like to support other Christians if it meets my need), cost. I can pick up a Chek-Mate Falcon for $300, how cheap should I go?

I definitely appreciate your guys help

LBR

Great--at least you have a shop to go to, which is more than most of us have. Big plus!

If they are willing, the shop can get you a left-handed CM to try out. I'm guessing that the 50-55# bows were well above your comfort level. This is NOT the time to be macho--I've seen little guys handle heavy bows, and big guys struggle with light bows. Being able to pull a bow to anchor doesn't mean you can handle it--you want to be able to shoot more than a dozen arrows before it wears you down.

Again, take your time and work into it. Develop good form and shooting habits--this us MUCH easier with a bow you are fully in control of (light weight). You can shoot longer and have more fun with it. Get your skills developed first, then move on to a hunting weight. Lighter bows are fun to shoot and also work great for tournaments and small game hunting. I deal with Chek-Mate myself, and I think they still have a lighter weight left-handed Atilla recurve on hand that your shop could grab for you, if you can't find a good cheap used bow.

I'm sure you know this already, but I'll say it anyway--this is going to be a different game. Unlike crossbows or compounds, where pretty much anyone that knows the basics and can put a sight pin on the target can shoot accurately, this is going to take some time. The good thing is it's lots of fun, especiallyif you do it properly. Don't create roadblocks that will hinder your progress. There are no shortcuts, but you will progress faster by starting out right.

Chad

Matthew V. (An outdoorsman)

Thanks a lot LBR. I appreciate your time. Last time I was at the shop they still had the Atilla in 50 lb and I shot it. I also shot the Falcon in 55 lb. The Falcon was definitely getting hard after a couple pulls, but the Attila was fairly comfortable for shooting. The only thing against the Atilla was the finger pinch. That is why I was planning on ordering in the Falcon in 50 lb. Longer than the Attila and less poundage than the other Falcon. Good compromise. You've convinced me (I think) to stay out of the higher range customs for now. Love the feel and grip of the Falcon. The only problem is it might take up to three months before they can get the exact bow I want in. Maybe I should just pick up the Atilla?

LBR

Good point--I got in a hurry and hadn't even thought about the bow length. I know it will be tough, but you will be better off in the long run to wait for a Falcon. The Falcon is faster, and the length will make it more forgiving. I'd still go lighter than 50# starting out though. If you go with the 50, be sure that you don't shoot until you are exausted. When you start to get tired, take a break. When you try to push yourself, that is when you will start developing bad habits.

Chad