Three finger under
#13
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 881

It is all in the tillering of the bow. If a bow is tillered for three under it's useless to try split finger. When I purchase a bow I have them ship it unfinished (some will not send them this way, which means I have to sand the finish and the limbs[:@]).
I have many bows that shoot perfect for me and many have different tillers. I get a bow, shoot it and sand the limbs until the tiller gets to whatI need. Somewhere between 1/8" to 5/16" shooting the same style.
The tiller has to match the shooting style in order to shoot well.
I have many bows that shoot perfect for me and many have different tillers. I get a bow, shoot it and sand the limbs until the tiller gets to whatI need. Somewhere between 1/8" to 5/16" shooting the same style.
The tiller has to match the shooting style in order to shoot well.
#14
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175

That's true, ewolf, but most bows I've had shot equally well with either split or 3-under by simply adjusting the nock point. I've had to sand the snot out of a few to get them to shoot 3-under though.

#15
Guest
Posts: n/a

Ok, guys, how do you know if a bow is tilled for 3 under?
If I set my nock point 1/2" over center and start to pull the bow back, the bottom limb flips out first. If I set the nock point almost 1/8" over center (basically bottom of nock point is dead center to rest), then when I start to draw, the bow limbs stay pretty even but I definatly get a high flip from my arrow. I set the nock point again to 1/2" over center and it goes away.
If I set my nock point 1/2" over center and start to pull the bow back, the bottom limb flips out first. If I set the nock point almost 1/8" over center (basically bottom of nock point is dead center to rest), then when I start to draw, the bow limbs stay pretty even but I definatly get a high flip from my arrow. I set the nock point again to 1/2" over center and it goes away.