ApexPro

could someone please give me a detailed process of how they are tuning their recurves? and the process of finding the right arrow. thanks.......

i am new to this and sold everything i had that had to do with a compound and bought a new Gamemaster and thinking of the new Fred Bear Super Kodiak Supreme.

is their any shooting tests to determine the right arrow or is it paper tuning? i havent paper tuned a compound for years but that is for a different thread. just need help getting started and it seems to be hard in some of these forums especially when they hear you bought an aluminum recurve?!?

Double Creek

This can bea very broad or a very detailed subject.... There are also a couple of different fields of thought....... The one I go by is found here: http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm I suggest you print it and read it several times before you begin....

ApexPro

thank you very much, read it and very informative and gonna give it a try.

BobCo19-65

apexPro, welcome!

Here is my 2 cents, I'd suggest using Kelly's arrow chart to find your initial arrows. I'd set the recurve brace height to the upper end of the bowyers recommendations and set the nock point to about 1/2 to 3/4" above 90 degrees. This should all get you very close. Then just shoot for a while and work on your form and don't worry too much about tuning.

See your tuning will only be as good as you can shoot the bow. Once you get your form fairly decent, then I'd get more specific in your tune.

Keep up posted and feel freee to ask anything, well - almost anything.

LBR

Not much I could add to that! A few things to note: first, make sure your nocks don't fit too tight. If they do, it will bugger your arrow flight and no amount of tuning will fix it. As Bob said, your tuning will only be as good as your shooting--work on consistency, and check your tuning if things change or don't feel the same. If you can't get perfect flight right away, don't sweat it--you will need a good release first, and afteryou work on that you can go back and fine-tune. Paper tuning works just fine, and is preferred by some folks. I like both myself, but bare-shaft tuning can give you a false reading if your bow is cut past center--it will show that you "need" a heavier spine than you can actually shoot. Adjustments can be made several ways: Arrow spine (which can further be adjusted with arrow length and point weight), brace height, and nock point.

Byron Ferguson's "Become the Arrow" (book--I haven't seen the video) and Ricky Welch's "Instinctive Archery Volume II" (video) can both help.

Good luck, and welcome to our addiction!

Chad