Hey guys,

I can't get my bow paper tuned???
I've been wanting to change from mechanical broadheads to fixed broadheads and I was told my bow needs to be paper tuned. We tried paper tuning my bow and the guy told me I would have to use a different type of arrow.
Right now I'm shooting Gold Tips Xp's 5575's with 100gr g5 tekan mechanical.

What are you guys shooting for fixed broadheads??? Is anyone shooting fixed broadheads??? Any suggestions?

Well it depends on what poundage and draw length you're shooting. The XT 5575s might be a tad underspined depending on your setup. What kind of paper tears are you getting?

What kind of rest are runing? I was using a WB and I could not get my VFT to shoot right I ended up trying a drop a way and now it shoots bullet holes. It's something to try good luck!




PS I shoot Vortex pro Extreme 125gr I know that that is a big head but I Shoot the 90#er with a 500gr arrows the last deer I shot was a neck hit and that deer all most lost it's head! Need less to say It one of my Favorite bows.

more info would be helpful
like draw weight
what arrow rest are you using?

a shoot thru rest or a full containment rest is hard to get tuned you will need to set a shoot thru prong style rest spring tension just right or you will get vertical tears thru paper.

if you are pulling 70 pounds the 5575 GT will have too weak of a spine the easiest way to see if it is the spine is to back the poundage off and see if it will shoot a bullet hole.

if it will shoot a bullet hole on 60# and not 70# you have a spine issue

you could try a 75 grain point and see if that helps any but I would recommend going to a stiffer arrow.

or it could be something as simple as the nocking point needs to be re located

Too many variables to tell right off hand.

I found that paper tuning is somewhat of a pain in the butt since you aren't always sure why an arrow is nock left. Is the rest too far right so the arrow is getting shot that way, or is it too far left so the fletching is hitting the rest and kicking it back the other way. You get my drift...

If I were you, I'd bare shaft tune instead. I had much better luck since this eliminates fletching contact problems. If you are shooting good with a bare shaft, and you aren't with a shaft with fletchings, you have fletching contact. It just seems to fix a bunch of problems doing it the bare shaft way.

It basically works the exact same as paper tuning, but instead of shooting a fletched arrow through paper, you shoot an unfletched arrow at your target. If it's not sticking straight out of the target, you move things around in SMALL increments until you get it right.

Just my $0.02! Good luck!

Thanks for the replies guys.....I guess I'll wait until next year before trying to mess around with the set up again.

As for my rest, I'm shooting a 3d Rover, my bow is set up at 70lbs and my arrows are 28"'s long.

Toronto

I have the same bow as you, I was shooting GT 5575XT's and my arrows were underspinned. I am pulling 70# 29" draw . I changed to GT 7955 XTs and my arrows are flying much better. I also went from 28" to a 29" arrow and changed my fletching to NAP Quickspins.

Unless you have a short draw, say 27" and under, you are definitely underspined. I shot my 60/29" ExVFT with .400 spine class arrows (same general as the GT 55/75s).

The 2003 I-cam loads up big on the back end of the draw, and requires a stiff arrow to keep from noodling all over the place.