Draw Length Changing
09-16-2004, 11:29 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 9
Draw Length Changing
I have a feeling my draw length is a shade too long...but here goes.
I bought a used bow from a friend (I know you guys are probably already rolling your eyes), and I've been shooting it for over 5 years now. I shoot with a release and a release loop on the string. When I have my bow drawn comfortably I'm anchored with my thumb locked behind my neck, and my string comes just along the side of my nose. This was working well for about three years...then I started tinkering.
I was having a really bad torque problem where when the arrow was centered on the rest, it shot fletch left through paper...like 3" of fletch to the left. I had several people shoot the bow and they all shot close to bullet holes. So, I changed two things at the same time.
1) I changed my grip from a relaxed full-palm contact (which I felt might have been pushing hard to one side of the grip) to a grip where my hand was extended more and the grip was kind of centered in the notch between my thumb and index finger.
2) The second thing was to go with a drop away rest.
I centered the arrow, and aside from some other drop-away problems, was shooting bullet holes really close to the arrow centered.
All of that feels right, but now I'm getting a lot of string slap on my arm. If I really concentrate on allowing some flex in my bow-holding arm, and lift my elbow up, I avoid the slap. But, if I wear my hunting coat when I shoot...no chance!
Over the past five years I have done numerous things to shorten my draw length...I changed the cam module once, shortened my Scott release to the shortest setting, and moved the draw stop REALLY close to the "front" of the valley (a slight distraction and I can paper-tune my humerous bone).
Am I ignoring the obvious?
I bought a used bow from a friend (I know you guys are probably already rolling your eyes), and I've been shooting it for over 5 years now. I shoot with a release and a release loop on the string. When I have my bow drawn comfortably I'm anchored with my thumb locked behind my neck, and my string comes just along the side of my nose. This was working well for about three years...then I started tinkering.
I was having a really bad torque problem where when the arrow was centered on the rest, it shot fletch left through paper...like 3" of fletch to the left. I had several people shoot the bow and they all shot close to bullet holes. So, I changed two things at the same time.
1) I changed my grip from a relaxed full-palm contact (which I felt might have been pushing hard to one side of the grip) to a grip where my hand was extended more and the grip was kind of centered in the notch between my thumb and index finger.
2) The second thing was to go with a drop away rest.
I centered the arrow, and aside from some other drop-away problems, was shooting bullet holes really close to the arrow centered.
All of that feels right, but now I'm getting a lot of string slap on my arm. If I really concentrate on allowing some flex in my bow-holding arm, and lift my elbow up, I avoid the slap. But, if I wear my hunting coat when I shoot...no chance!
Over the past five years I have done numerous things to shorten my draw length...I changed the cam module once, shortened my Scott release to the shortest setting, and moved the draw stop REALLY close to the "front" of the valley (a slight distraction and I can paper-tune my humerous bone).
Am I ignoring the obvious?
09-17-2004, 11:40 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 9
RE: Draw Length Changing
That's certainly something to look at. I changed strings before last season, LOTS of arows and tuned several times since then, but haven't looked at timing.
By the way, if I'm shooting a single-cam, and there's only a "roller" round cam on the other end, are there cam timing problems. I measured the tiller and that was even...just don't know about the cams.
Thanks
By the way, if I'm shooting a single-cam, and there's only a "roller" round cam on the other end, are there cam timing problems. I measured the tiller and that was even...just don't know about the cams.
Thanks
