muzzyman88

I was reading Eastons tuning guide the other night to see what I'm missing.

They state, that if you have a left tear, move the rest to the right. Is this right? To me, if you move it to the left, it would fix it.

What does everyone else do?

ArcticBowMan

With my first bow, I followed several guides and how-to manuals on tuning bows and paper tuning. I never could get a good tear out of it. I eventually took it to a pro shop and had them tune it and all was well for a while after that.
With the new bow, I got it set up by the pro shop, shot bullet holes within minutes and have not had any tuning problems in a year and a half.

I'm not sure of the mechanics of the paper tuning guides though, I just followed them, it didn't get me very far, mainly because my bow had more problems than a simple rest adjustment could fix.

ChiefHeadhunter

I've found that you might have to go opposite what they describe if it gets the results you need, it says that toward the end of most PT explanations. I'd take measurements and have reference marks recorded and set before I really start tinkering though. If your tares are getting worse, go the other way with it. Nock point first usually then left to right w/ rest.

I feel it's a good idea to tinker if you have the desire to learn how to tune and it's probably the only way to learn it. If you slap b-heads on a couple of weeks before hunting season and find that your groups suck or you have big problems and that's not the time to have to spend a bunch of time getting with your shop to fix it. If that's your plan then I say get it over with as early as possible because time will get away from you.

I also try different approaches sometimes, and there are several. If you just can't get it paper tuned, try a different method. It's always a good idea to have a record of how well you're grouping, if at all, before you start making big changes. There is paper tuning, bareshaft, group tuning, and the walkback method, to name a few. Remember, the proper tools are always helpful, so get what you need (they are worth the investment) do a lot of research, ask for help from these great guys and girls if you need it, and learn how to tune your own equipment. I believe everyone is different and tuning your own equipment is the only way to fine what's "best" for you.

If the guy at the shop does it for you it will be tuned to him or you'll get the best he can tune it to you in the amount of time he's willing to spend. I wouldn't be expecting perfection in that case.

No disrespect to ABM and I'm glad that's working for him, but I recommend doing what your doing and learn the skill. Good luck Muzzyman and I hope this helps.

Sorry I yakked so much.

cubdriver

If you are using a release then the information is correct. It is different for fingers. There are several very good sites to look at. One is at www.martinarchery.com/manual/finetune.html

Good luck

ArcticBowMan

CHH, no offense taken there. I do most of my tuning now, but if I ever run into problems that I just can't seem to fix, I head to the pro shop.
That's one of the main reasons that I wanted a bow that was very user friendly, and accessories that were very reliable.

muzzyman88

Thanks everyone for your kindness. I really appreciate you guys helping me. Its nice to know there are people out there willing to give advice and support.

One of the pro shops that I used to go to was terrible. Their motto was, let us fix it, you have no clue what you're doing. Hell of a way to treat customers. I found a great shop after that.

I will keep pluggin away at it. I will figure it out sooner or later.

Thanks again guys.

Deleted User

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nidahoscott

a good shop is worth its weight in gold. i bought a brand new G2 , quicktune 3000, trophyridge, acc's and my local pro set it up infront of me explaining everthing in detail. after 6 arrows i was shooting 4 inch groups at 20 yards after 24 arrows i was shooting at a different xring every shot. and i was in that xring every shot. hey bob thanks.