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#2
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,994
Likes: 0
From:
The 60 grain tip will only net you a few fps at best.
Any chance you can crank the bow down a bit to up the poundage?
Get everything off the string except the bare essentials. I assume you use a peep (3D). If you use a rubber tube, ditch it. Get a lighter no tube needed peep.
The Liberty at 304ish IBO is respectable, but not a speed bow by todays standards. Perhaps get some 70# limbs and back it off until it does what you want?
If all that fails, find comfort in the fact that the trajectory difference in 17fps is not very big
Any chance you can crank the bow down a bit to up the poundage?
Get everything off the string except the bare essentials. I assume you use a peep (3D). If you use a rubber tube, ditch it. Get a lighter no tube needed peep.
The Liberty at 304ish IBO is respectable, but not a speed bow by todays standards. Perhaps get some 70# limbs and back it off until it does what you want?
If all that fails, find comfort in the fact that the trajectory difference in 17fps is not very big
#4
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,994
Likes: 0
From:
Well, for 3D, you don't need the hush kit. Take it all off and see what that does for you.
You could also switch to one of the new shorter headed releases that will allow you to draw more length but retain your current anchor point, assuming you don't already. Course then you'd need a new module, but they're cheap...
Basically, increase draw weight, increase draw length, decrease arrow weight, get everything not absolutely necessary off the string. Not much more than that can be done...
You could also switch to one of the new shorter headed releases that will allow you to draw more length but retain your current anchor point, assuming you don't already. Course then you'd need a new module, but they're cheap...
Basically, increase draw weight, increase draw length, decrease arrow weight, get everything not absolutely necessary off the string. Not much more than that can be done...
#5
Looks like you're pretty well at the limit as for arrow weigh/lb. Do you have a brass nockset? Mine slowed me down 4fps vs a tied on nockset. Considering you're not trying to yank your sjoulders out of socket you might consider a custom string of BCY8125 or Brownell TS-1 with two less strands than recommended. This may gain you as much as 10fps. Often overlooked, because they cost a few dollars.
#6
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From:
Believe it or not, i had an old timer convence me to try the "speed balls" from cabela's, and they work. I gained 12 fps, and it did not add any noise. I also had an archery shop pro say that by putting a simple brass nock in the same place it would have produced the same results.
#7
Go out and buy you a dozen of speed pro max shafts, tune a nocks,
2.50"x.50" Flex Fletch Vanes and 65 Grain FP I guarantee you at least 15 FPS probably more.
2.50"x.50" Flex Fletch Vanes and 65 Grain FP I guarantee you at least 15 FPS probably more.
#8
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: USA
flash.....the speed balls do work, however the trick is getting them in the correct place on the string. You really need to shoot arrows through a chrono, move the balls, shoot more arrows and repeat. Eventually you will find a "sweet spot" that gives you the most speed increase.
As for using a brass nockset in place of the speed balls......DON'T! The brass nocks are not designed for the stress axially along the string that you find at the ends of the limbs near the cams. They are designed for the perpendicuar stress you get at the center of the string. Essentially what can and will happen is one or more of these puppies will come off on the shot, possibly causing some severe damage to yourself or bystanders. If you do use brass nocks, relax your string, and slide some heat strink tubing over the string and nocks, then shrink it. This will keep the nocks in place if one happens to "liberate" itself from your string.
As for using a brass nockset in place of the speed balls......DON'T! The brass nocks are not designed for the stress axially along the string that you find at the ends of the limbs near the cams. They are designed for the perpendicuar stress you get at the center of the string. Essentially what can and will happen is one or more of these puppies will come off on the shot, possibly causing some severe damage to yourself or bystanders. If you do use brass nocks, relax your string, and slide some heat strink tubing over the string and nocks, then shrink it. This will keep the nocks in place if one happens to "liberate" itself from your string.
#9
Alas, the Liberty is not designed for speed. Especially at lighter poundages and shorter draw lengths. You've been given some pretty good advice here. Other than that there is not much you can do.
BTW, your Liberty already has a TS1 string from one of a few custom string manufacturers so I'm not sure if spending the money is worth it , in that case.
BTW, your Liberty already has a TS1 string from one of a few custom string manufacturers so I'm not sure if spending the money is worth it , in that case.
#10
ORIGINAL: Bigpapascout
Go out and buy you a dozen of speed pro max shafts, tune a nocks,
2.50"x.50" Flex Fletch Vanes and 65 Grain FP I guarantee you at least 15 FPS probably more.
Go out and buy you a dozen of speed pro max shafts, tune a nocks,
2.50"x.50" Flex Fletch Vanes and 65 Grain FP I guarantee you at least 15 FPS probably more.
. But if he can get right at 300 grains with them, then I guess it's worth a try.


