True Frank, there is also a business side to the course. I know not what the percentage of "split" may be though.

I mainly was just trying to explain why the sales-guy would have said that to RB.

Frank, now there's a thought... And hey, you saw the comment, that's something positive, right?

Jeff, thanks for the shred of hope

Ok, Now I'm confused...

Picked up my bow from the shop. Paid my $20 for the NV install, and asked the guy, the "pro", if they had any issues with making sure string and cable were put back on to the spec I left them. He said no, Partner (who wasn't going to be doing the work, I understood) said cable right on, string only needed 4 twists. I looked down, hole in cam used to orient for proper timing is completely covered by limb, supposed to only be 1/2 covered. I notice limbs are backed off quite a bit, and asked what they set the bow on. He said partner set it back on what it was, which I figured to be 64#s, or 2 full turns backed off from max.

I asked him to put it on the scale, it read 60#s. I figure this accounts for the timing hole issue, I'll crank it back up when I have time.

I get back to my office, of course want to shoot it to see what's up. First problem. Nock an arrow, nock is now a good 1/2" or more low. I adjust to get it level again, at least 1/2", and figure good to go. I decide to walk close to target, just to be safe, and proceed to draw. Second problem. My arrows, which were 1/4" longer than my rest prong, are now about 3/16" TOO SHORT. Thoroughly confused, I start to let down, and accidentally hit my release. Fortunately, I catch the bottom of the bag, so no harm done...

I am short on time and won't be able to mess with anything until tomorrow. I figure my first course of action will be to max the limbs out and measure specs. From there, I'm open to suggestions...

Sounds to me like you have one of those pro-shops that I always say set people up with 2" longer drawlenth than they should shoot. I'd only have to go to place like that once and I'd have my own press. Come to think of it there are several GOOD shops within 20 ,miles of my house and I still have my own press. Do you get my drift???

Hey, even a good ole Bowmaster does pretty well for most stuff. I use it more than my big press. $50 with split-limb adaptors.

It sounds like they thoroughly messed up the timing on that single cam which could result in both the draw weight change and the change in draw length. You do have a portable press, right? I would suggest retiming the cam before you do anything else. I would be willing to wager that it puts the rest of your problems to rest as well.

It is a shame that you have to have such a difficult time with this due to the "service" that you got from your "PRO" shop.[:@]

Now that the NV system is installed, you should be able to get things back to spec with the Bowmaster press. I hope that after all of this, you finally get the results that you are after.

BG, I have a bowmaster, just wasn't convinced it could be used to break a bow down entirely, so I took it to a shop. This shop is the closest to us, while it's been there a while, under new ownership for about 2 years. They got dumped by bowtech last year, so now they carry Mathews, or course...

I was talking to a friend yesterday who bought an LX from them. He has a true 30" draw, but is only getting sub 250 fps from the bow. I asked him the usual questions, what's on the string, how heavy arrows, etc. etc. He didn't know, thought the arrows were game tracker. I asked him if terminators. He said that sounded right. I explained how much they weigh over a typical ICS carbon, talked him through what causes less fps than rating states. He wants to shoot 280 or so so he can use mechanicals. I said why. He said the shop told him he didn't have enough KE to shoot mechanicals with his set up. I did a quick KE calculation, came up at 69.4'#s, told him he could shoot any mechanical on the planet. He was relieved, cause he couldn't get his fixed blades to fly accurately. I talked with him about arrow spine and inconsistency, he said a guy did spin them for him, they ALL wobbled. I suspected he did not get terminator selects. Shot field points good, but not fixed. I told him he was screwed unless he bought new arrows. He didn't want to do this, cause he just paid $40 (thoroughly convinced at this point no terminator selects) for this dozen, and the shop told him they were good arrows. I gave up. I'm sure he'll slap some mechanicals on now, and probably in the long run be better off, but it's the tale as old as time. I'm SOOOO glad I found this place and paid a bit of attention...


Frank, Cam timing is the first thing I want to check when I tighten the limb bolts to 70#s, where the factory measure's specs. At this point, I'm getting the sneaky feeling it won't be off that much. Seems like how my luck usually runs. If it is, I can fine tune it with the bowmaster, and go from there.

Joe, yep, a pure shame. Problem is, that seems to be all that abounds close to me. There is one shop about an hour away that holds hope (I dated the owner's sister awhile back, always liked the guy. Liked his sister better ), but it's a pain to get to. As for getting the results I wanted, probably not, as that's how things seem to go usually, but the fun's in the chase, right?

Actually, the NVs don't look near as funky as I thought they would, which is a plus in all this, I guess...

Ok, here's what I found-

Manufacturer spec-

ATA- 30 8/16"
Brace- 7 7/16"

Pre- "pro" shop-

ATA- 30 13/16", 5/16" more
Brace- 7 3/16", 4/16" less

Post shop-

ATA- 31 3/16", 11/16" MORE
Brace- 7 2/16", 5/16" less

I also noticed that what little serving separation I had in the cam area is now much more separated. With Limbs fully seated, cam timing hole is still totally obscured by the limb. Me-thinks I need to twist the crapola out of my string. I'm open to suggestions on how to proceed... and I paid $20 for this "pleasure"... [:@]

If you can at the dealer try an Enhancer 2000 short version and (because everyone likes this one) use an 8" Stealth on the front. The Enhancer 2000 is designed to reduce bow jump/torque. With a stabilizer out front like the the 8" you can get great benefits from the combo. Also you will only have 11" total length.

Thanks for the input svltech. I may try that if I can find a shop that carries it.

Right now, focus has shifted to undoing the damage done. I have a bad taste in my mouth for shops at the moment...