Jeff,

You been smokin' something buddy? I get kind of confused with that Zen stuff....

I looked back over the last 50 threads you posted on an could not find a clue to what you are talking about.

try another group of heavier spined arrows. I bet its the spin, i would put the arrow rest back and shot some 400's, or take the point off and see if it tears better, or as light a point as you can go. Were at in ohio im from Cincy.

I agree with elk freak. If your rest is all the way to the right then you arrow is already sitting in a position pointing to the right which will give you a left tear. I believe you need to try to recenter your rest. Then start over. The arrows are not the problem. If anything they are on the stiff side which would give you a right tear.

ohiogleanerman, how about an update? Have you solved the problem yet?

Just a bit more "non-technical banter" but thought I would relay my experience from last night.[:@]

One of my Axis arrows had a few tears in the fletching, so I decided that it was time to see where I was at with bare shaft tuning with the Pro 40 Wheely. As I started out, I was getting a slightly tail-right flight, and the bare shaft was hitting just a bit to the left of the fletched arrow. I figured I knew what adjustments to make, but they just made the situation worse.[:@] The Wheely has a GKF micro-adjustable rest on it, so I thought this would be easy to take care of. I tried different horizontal positions, vertical positions, spring tension, and nothing made the bare shaft fly straight. Adding to the frustration were my two other bows that were shooting the bare shafts as close to perfectly as I can tell @ 16 yards. Frankenstein, my put-together bow with a new brown Whisker Biscuit rest was putting the bare Axis, fletched Axis, and even an ACC 3-60 into the same spot. Even the ancient Viper was doing basically the same with an old XI Omega rest.

I ended up setting the rest the way it was when I started, which gave me the best results, bare shaft about 3/4 to 1" left. With the Bowtech, I had been putting my hand on the ridge of the grip right on the thumb side of my lifeline, and gripping it loosely. On a whim, I decided to grip the bow like I had to with the other two bows. First shot with the bare shaft, it flew perfectly. The fletched arrow tried to squeeze into the same hole in my bag target. Being a slow learner at times, I shot the same spot again. Anyone know where I can buy more X-nocks?[&:] After that, I started shooting different spots, with the same results. Grip the bow, excellent bare shaft flight and grouping. Tried to go back to the loose grip, got the tail right flight and left impact back.[:'(] I could continue to tear my hair out over this, but it is already getting thin in the front.
Guess I will just grip this bow too, and see how it does. I think that is what I would normally do in a hunting situation anyway, unless I made a conscious effort to use the exaclty placed loose grip.

As far as your problem goes, I had a Q2 XL and an MQ 1 and both of these bows shot and tuned better for me with a high-wrist grip. The Mathews grips are very narrow throated, and flare to wider dimensions farther down. Lots of guys like them that way, but it didn't work too well for me unless I high-wristed the bow. Might be worth trying if you continue to have problems.