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So I'm building some arrows on paper to find the perfect build for my new Carbon Spyder ZT Turbo. I've always relied on my pro shop to do this, but now I live too far from a great pro shop and I need to master it myself. I'd love to know what you all are shooting in regards to total weight, spine, arrow length vs Draw length, etc. Here are my specs:
30 inch draw
70 lb draw

So here are my questions:

1) Arrow Spine - I've read speed bows like CSTs don't do well with 340, and there's a lot of recommendations of 300. It seems to me we should find the stiffest arrow it shoots well, then find the softest arrow it shoots well, then choose a stiffness right smack in the middle. So how stiff is too stiff for you? (Ok, that sounded dirty)

2) Arrow Shaft Weight - So they say to shoot 6-8 grains per poundage draw. However this number came out before the 350 ft/sec bows, and at 70 pounds, that equates to a huge difference in weight recommendations. 6 grains per = 420... 7 grains per = 490... 8 grains per = 560. See what I mean?

3) Field Point/Broadhead Weight - The stiffer spine makes for a heavier arrow, the speed/poundage of the CST seems to like a heavier arrow, a 30 inch draw makes for a heavy arrow. So to compensate for all that weight, does a 125 point work best for you? What do you like best?

4) Vane Length/Profile/Number of Vanes - I have no idea what's better here. But I have to think there's a big difference in the aerodynamics of a 2 inch high profile vane vs a lower profile 4 inch, etc. How many vanes do you use, 3 or 4?

5) Draw Length vs Total Arrow Length - What length is your draw, and what length do you like your's built, (total length, including your nock and point/broadhead)

I know each of these things makes just a tiny difference, but add all those little differences up and I think it could make a big difference on your shot grouping.

Here's a sample arrow I've built on paper... right now I'm shooting cheaper arrows and only buying them by the half dozen because I want to try a bunch of different builds and see what works best. Then, once I've found the best build, I'll spend the money on some really good arrows.

11.6 Accu Tough Nock
24.8 Accu Tough Insert
301.6 Gold Tip Kinetic 300 .006 10.4gpi 29inches
26 Vanes - 3 @ 8.7gr each
125 Field Point (Gold Tip Easy Pull)
489 grains Total Arrow Weight

Mathews Halon 6

Mathews Halon 6 345 ibo at 27 1/2 draw, 70lb - 73lb Using FMJ 6mm 320 spine. 10.6 grain. cut at 28 1/2'' 100 grain field tip. At about 415 - 420 grains.

wild bill g

Your bow may be advertised at 350 but your actual speed will be far less with the arrow weights you listed. My guess would be you will need a 300 spine arrow to get good arrow flight. If you really want your speed try a 100 grain point rather than 125. Personaly I have good success with the 2inch Blazer vanes and use three of them with a slight offset or angle on them. You could go the helical route as it stabilises your arrow better but slows them down faster. If you can go for an arrow in the 450 grain weight complete. That will give you all the penatration you should need and still a reasonable arrow speed.. As for arrow length if you are a 30 inch draw 30 and a half inches should be a good length. All you need is the arrow tip past the front of the riser some shoot with arrow tip alittle longer than rest but that is up to you. Hope this helps and good luck getting setup. One more thing get a good quality fletching jig it makes life much better and allows for better arrow fine tuning.