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scratching my head

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Old 11-11-2013 | 11:52 AM
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Default scratching my head

I got my PSE DNA in February. I had it perfectly tuned - including broadhead tuning with Slick tricks. However this sseason I decided to go with Rage mechanials. I was successful in harvesting a couple deer with the Rages and they were shooting perfectly. However, I decided to put a Slick Trick on an arrow and shot it at 30 yards. I was surprised that it hit about 3" high right. I shot 3 more times and put it pretty much in the same hole as the first. I tried tweaking the rest but still no difference - in fact it got worse. I put on a new out of the package Slick Trick and got the same result.
The only diffeence that I can see that may be the culprit is that my brace height has changed and my string is now in contact with the rubber on my string stop where when new it was about 1/16" - 1/8" away.
Could that be what the problem is?
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Old 11-11-2013 | 02:40 PM
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Nontypical Buck
 
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could be anything...Id stick with one broad head. And sight you bow in to that particular broad head. Not all broad heads fly the same. does the arrow fish tail when you shoot it? look at your fletchings to see if theres marks on it...if there are something is out of whack...if no marks and no fish tail...it could just be how the Slick trick broad head flys...
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Old 11-11-2013 | 02:46 PM
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Check your ATA. String may have stretched and changed the timing in the cams.
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Old 11-11-2013 | 05:39 PM
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I was thinking that Ohio and that is the 1st thing I checked. ATA is only 1/8" over specs so no big deal.
I'll get it figured out after the season. But something changed.
No wilcam there is no fishtailing or fletching contact. It is a minor tuning issue. After the season will prob take it to the shop and have them put a couple twists in the string to shorten the ATA and inceas the BH and go from there.
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Old 11-12-2013 | 03:42 PM
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I think Ohio hit it right on the head. The rigging has elongated. Consider this. For an arrow to move 3" at 30 yards your nocking point only has to move 1/32" or even less. You say the A2A has gotten longer but only by 1/8"? That would point me in the right direction real quick. If the rigging is stable the A2A would not change at all.
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Old 11-13-2013 | 05:39 PM
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Brace height and ATA change (shortening brace, lengthening ATA) like that is cable/string stretch. Pretty normal for a new bow/strings to give up that ~1/8" ATA. Have you paper tuned your bow before or after? Did you measure deflection from level of a nocked arrow at brace? Have you confirmed your timing?

Since it moved horizontally, not just vertically (slowed down), that indicates you might have uneven tension in the cables side to side. Vertical drift can be a shift in your nock point with the stretch (stretch happening at one end of the string vs evenly). Did you notice any difference in the tiller balance as you broke the bow in? (Does the bow feel like it's tipping up or down more upon drawing than it did before?) Was there a difference in the ATA from one side to the other?

Love troubleshooting and tuning bows... Wish I could justify taking on a part time gig as a bowtech again...
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Old 11-17-2013 | 08:00 AM
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I'm not sure what the ATA was at time of shooting. And anyway, ATA is when the bow is set at max. I am below max DW so it makes sense that it is slightly longer.
There are reference lines on my cam as a visual as to whether my cams are in sync (at rest) and they line up. Also my draw stops are equal at full draw.
I have one more week of archery bear then I am going to start all over and re-set everything.
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Old 11-17-2013 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bronko22000
I am below max DW so it makes sense that it is slightly longer.
You have this backwards.

When you reduce draw weight, your BRACE HEIGHT gets longer, but your ATA generally shrinks. Decreasing draw weight is decreasing the preload 'levering action' on the limbs, which lets them relax slightly compared to max draw. That means your tips move together slightly, lowering ATA, and lean further away from the riser, increasing brace height. You'll also see a slight increase then in draw length when you drop poundage.
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Old 11-20-2013 | 01:08 PM
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Don't ask me how but I found out what the problem was. I put my centershot gauge on the riser, set the distance button to the string. When I flipped it over to check the alignment to the nocked arrow my arrow was way off. I had to move the rest in a good 3/8" of an inch to align it. It's a wonder my BHs were even hitting the target!
I went out and sighted the bow in with FTs at 20 yds, shot some FTs along side some new Slick Tricks, made a couple very minor adjustments and have the BHs hitting within and inch of the FTs. What a relief. I was so frustrated I was seriously thinking about selling the bow and getting a new one.
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Old 11-20-2013 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bronko22000
Don't ask me how but I found out what the problem was. I put my centershot gauge on the riser, set the distance button to the string. When I flipped it over to check the alignment to the nocked arrow my arrow was way off. I had to move the rest in a good 3/8" of an inch to align it. It's a wonder my BHs were even hitting the target!
I went out and sighted the bow in with FTs at 20 yds, shot some FTs along side some new Slick Tricks, made a couple very minor adjustments and have the BHs hitting within and inch of the FTs. What a relief. I was so frustrated I was seriously thinking about selling the bow and getting a new one.
bows are finicky...but work good once everything is lined up!
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