slacker

This will be my first year bowhunting. I recently purchased a Pearson Quad 440. So far I' m quite happy with it. I had it paper tuned at the shop I bought it from and I can shoot fieldpoints in a 3" group at 30 yards. I decided that I wanted to use G5 Montecs to hunt. I bought the preseason broadheads (and hunting broadheads)so I could practice. I eagerly screwed them into my arrows and started shooting. I knew that broadheads would fly differently than my field points but I was disappointed to find that at 20 yards they hit 9" low and 9" left of my aim point. Before I started moving my nocking point and rest, I decided to ask the pro where I bought the bow. He didn' t seem at all suprised. He checked my broadhead/arrow alignment. It was good. He then suggested mechanical broadheads. I told him that I had already purchased these broadheads and would like to tune the bow to use them. He did everything in his power to convince me not to tune the bow! This seems to go against everything I read on the net. He said that sometimes you just can' t get certain broadheads to fly right. He went on to say that if I try to make my field points and broadheads strike the same place that " it' s a compromise" and that I will be giving up accuracy. He pointed out that if I tune the bow to the broadheads without also tuning it to field points that I cannot shoot field points anymore (with the season so close, I could just use my expensive practice broadheads). While extolling the virtues of mechanicals, he spent more time telling me about their short comings than convincing me why I should use them. My question is, is this guy an idiot? What did people do before mechanicals? I have also read that some people just move their sights to compensate. If I do this, the arrow will strike my aimpoint but will it effect penetration due to poor flight?

Arthur P

We tuned our bows to shoot broadheads straight and accurate. When it came time to shoot field points, a lot of us had an extra set of sights for our dovetail mounts and we simply switched sight bars (very few sights on the market any more with dovetail mounts). Most just resighted the bow.

If your broadhead arrows are flying straight with no wobble, then move the sights to compensate and go hunting.

bassmaster1200

I TUNE MY BOW FOR FEILD POINTS FIRST AND THEN SHOOT BROAD HEADS BOTH HIT THE SAME SPOT WHEN THEY DID NOT I CHECKED THE NOCKING POINT AND IT WAS FINE AND THEN THE LEFT AND RIGHT AND IT WAS OFF ABOUT 1/8 LINED IT UP AND BOTH GROUP REALLY WELL.

Rack-attack

If he isn' t he is real close

he does not want to put in the time to help you - they are busy this time of year.

Download eastons tunning guide and read it.

It is not crime to make some adjustments to the nock and rest - get your hands dirty and try to learn a bit about tunning it yourself. They do not need to hit in the same place, but they IMO should be better than what you are getting.

I would move that nock down a bit and move that rest in a bit.

Also check real close for fletching contact - it won' t effect field point accuracy but will kill you with broadheads.

Good Luck

Mahly13

Your dealer is a lazy boob!
those heads should have NO trouble grouping with field points!
Just " looking" at the bow tells you nothing!
He should FIRST watch you shoot to see if there is something your doing wrong to cause poor arrow flight (even so, if you do it consistantly, you can group field points well).
IF your shooting form is good, you should try moving the arrow rest up and to the right SMALL adjustments!!!!
When you get the BH to match your FPs...see how well you group. I SUSPECT that your grouping will be JUST as good.
Moving the sights to compensate a LITTLE is OK...but if your off by 9" both left and down...something just ain' t right there. moving the sights to fix it is just putting a band-aid on it. A couple inches...OK...but not 3/4 of a FOOT!
make a note of your settings, so you can go back to what you have if you go too far...or see a decrease in accuracy. then start adjusting it yourself.
Good Luck!!!

Arthur P

Another thing I forgot to mention... We all used to shoot 5" vanes or feathers. 4" and smaller was always reserved for target arrows. It doesn' t suprize me in the least seeing fixed blade broadheads plop into the target 9" off from field points with itty bitty fletching.

5 shot

I won' t comment on your dealer, but he is not being very helpful to say the least! Go to my site, www.broadheadtests.com click on the tuning link and read it over. Not every broadhead will shoot like field points with every setup, but after reading that section over you will better understand why. Bottom line you need at least a 4" helical fletch with a well tuned bow with matched equipment to get good consistant fixed blade broadhead groups. I use a moderate helical and am able to get excellent accuracy from just about every fixed blade head I shoot, and belive me I am not exspert, I just spend enough time tuning and playing with my equipment to know what works for me. If you have any questions after reading over the info, email me and I would be glad to help out.

david in oklahoma

IM allso new to archery. I just got my g5" s , I put them on easton X-7 eclipse thay are shooting dead center and 1inch left and that is more than likley my fault , good luck hope it all comes togethr for you..

slacker

I was getting contact between my fletchings and rest (TM hunter). I replaced it with a bodoodle 3000 zapper. I skinned the fletchings off 2 field points with the broadhead.

AKDoug

Congrats on solving the problem yourself.