Got a new bow and carbon arrows. What type of broadhead would you guys recommend? Mechanical or standard. Also what about weight , 100 grains or 125?
Thanks

Your information is too vague. Are you shooting enough energy to adequately shoot a mechanical?

There truly is no reason to not shoot a fixed blade head. With a properly tuned bow, matched tune arrows, fixed blades will and do fly with field points so accuracy is not a reason to shoot mechanicals.

So what are reasons....well shortcuts to a poorly tuned bow, poorly tuned arrows...possible larger cutting diameter depending on model....

Yes they can and are effective, just be sure of the reason you decide to swing towards mechanicals and not a quick fix for bad equipment.

If shooting a VERY fast arrow, even the most determined tuner may still have problems tuning a large diameter fixed head (assuming they want a large diameter...were talking 300 fps-ish and 1 1/4" head or so).
Also when windy the mech heads DO have an advantage.
Modern mech heads kill deer as dead as anything...and usually just as cleanly.
Personally, I have had good luck with mech heads but am still shooting fixed head as the mech heads are frowned upon buy some of the " old guys" . when in Rome...

With the quality of most carbon arrows, you may have a darn difficult time getting fixed blade heads to shoot straight. You' ll likely find only a few arrows out of a dozen that will consistently shoot fixed blades, and that' s with the premium shafts. You won' t find that many with the low end stuff. I think that' s the main reason mechanicals have gotten so popular.

Mahly 13 is right. Most of us ' old guys' (I prefer to think of us as ' experience enhanced hunters' ) frown on mechanicals. I know mechanicals work, when they are checked out to make sure they function properly and the blades are sharp, and the arrows are tuned right and when the bow is tuned to shoot accurately, and the shooter uses that accuracy to put the arrow where it should be. But after 45 years of bowhunting, I know that just because something SHOULD work doesn' t mean it always WILL work in the woods. Stuff happens.

You have to do the same things as far as sharp blades, tuning and proper shot placement with fixed blades, but there isn' t any worry about whether they will function properly. When the blades are always open, you know they will be open when they' re going through the animal.

But if you go mechanical... First and foremost, make sure you' re shooting enough bow. Most mechanical broadhead manufacturers recommend a minimum of 50-55 ft lbs of energy. Take time to be absolutely sure the things work. Most of the mechs I' ve bought to test have not been good, even top name brands with good reputations. The blades would not open on their own and some wouldn' t open even pulling on them with pliers. I had to remove the blades, clean them out and remove burrs from the pivot holes in the blades before they' d open up. That also means they can get dirty and sieze up again. So check them out before hitting the woods. EVERY time.

Otherwise, you could be here at some point during the season with yet another story of ' mechanical broadhead failure.'

I can just tell you my personal preferences on mechanicals and carbon arrows.

First off, I used mechanicals for a season on aluminum shafts. This was about seven years ago, and I' m sure that there has been a lot of advancements since then. But, on the mechanical heads that I used, I found that the heads were just not strong enough. I shot two deer with the heads, and on both heads, I had broken blades. Granted, both deer were dead, but....Another problem that I have with them is that the were just not strong enough to take repeated practice with. Practicing with field point is good enough for some folks, and I will admit that the heads that I used did fly pretty much the same as field points. But I like to practice with my exact hunting setup. I just can' t afford to keep replacing the mechanical heads after practicing with them a few times. So, probably as you could tell, I pretty much use mechanicals exclusively.

Now on the carbons. I used carbons also for one year with muzzy' s. I was never happy with my groupings using carbons and fixed heads. I did take two deer with them, and both were pass throughs, but I like to stay with what works well for me, and that is aluminums and fixed heads.

I don' t have a problem getting my 27.5" Thunderhead tipped Beman' s to fly like darts @285 fps. Making sure your bow is properly tuned is the most important. Then tune your arrows to the bow.

Arthur P, I remember when some " experience enhanced hunters" told me that carbons bounce off deer or they blow up when they hit deer. Funny, I never believed them and I' ve proven them wrong at least a couple dozen times. I will agree that some of the low end carbons are junk. However, I think for the most part carbons are more finicky because of their light weight moreso than tolerancing issues. Oh, and when you' re shooting those telephone poles I just can' t imagine anything workind very well....

And that very well could have been one of my problems with them. I was using 3-d select 400, uncut. I believe that they were 32.5 inches long. I have heard of others with long draws with the same problems that I had, but only know that they didn' t work for me.

Untuned bow, nahh, definetely not the problem.

Jason, I wouldn' t know about how carbons perform on deer because, like I said on the other thread, I' ve never gotten them to shoot good enough with a broadhead to even attempt to hunt with them.

In the early days of carbon arrows, I was shown quite a few carbon arrows that had ' blown up' in a deer. A lot of us ' experienced enhanced' hunters won' t keep trying something that crapped out on us, so if some of those guys had bad experiences then it stands to reason they' d say that. Never have heard the bit about carbons bouncing off of deer though.

But my phone poles have worked good enough to put together a pretty impressive collection of tournament trophies and I' ve eaten pretty good using them.

I have to think that spine and tolerance gets way out past 30-31" then?

BobCo, I hear the same things about you long draws! Just can' t get those carbons to fly....for the better anyway. Where' s Frank, he' s a long draw too....and shooting carbons last I knew.

I honestly wasn' t trying to start anything, just relaying my experiences. I have seen broken off/shattered carbons in deer....the pultruded carbons, but by no force other than the deers' own. Bouncing -- it was a long story when I was at a local shop and just a noob! Kept me away from carbons myself, for at least 5 years. It might have been a mech tipped carbon at that....I think even then I suspected lack of K.E. -- or not enough uuummmpppffff, as I so eliquently reffered to it then! I see nothing wrong with your phone poles....I just can' t imagine seeing arrows that long in my quiver. How long are they, 33" ?

I shoot 28" Goldtip XT 5575 and have been shooting them for about 4 years now tipped with a Thunderhead 100. So far i' ve never had a problem with this set up as far as grouping or performance on deer. Before the carbons i use to shoot Easton Eclipse 2413 with the same head and with the same results, good grouping and death on deer. I can shoot either but have chose to stick with carbons because they are with out a doubt more durable imo. I like both so if i ever saw the need to go back to aluminum i would do so without hesitation and be just as confident with them as i am with carbon.