How hard to draw against the Wall...
#1
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,994
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Shooting a single cam with a solid wall, should you be pulling hard against it, or should you just reach it when you hit your anchor point?
If pulling against it a bad idea, what are some of the problems it can cause?
If pulling against it a bad idea, what are some of the problems it can cause?
#4
With my infinity cam, you better stay in it or else your gonna pay!!
I wish there was some way I could measure the actual amount I' m holding at full draw before it rolls foreward, because it sure seems like more that my mathews (which I don' t have to tug into the wall).
I imagine I could just pull it down on my scale, but that seems like a bumpy ride just to read a #.
I wish there was some way I could measure the actual amount I' m holding at full draw before it rolls foreward, because it sure seems like more that my mathews (which I don' t have to tug into the wall).
I imagine I could just pull it down on my scale, but that seems like a bumpy ride just to read a #.
#5
A 1 cam seems to shoot better and more consistant if pulled hard against the wall.It will shoot slightly different if shot from the edge of the wall than it does from hard against the wall.Pulling hard is the easiest to repeat.
It is also easier to use backtension this way but can be done out of a valley also.Look at all the round wheel shooters that shoot indoor,they use backtension and shoot out of a valley.
It is also easier to use backtension this way but can be done out of a valley also.Look at all the round wheel shooters that shoot indoor,they use backtension and shoot out of a valley.
#6
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 718
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From: Arlington WA USA
I push and pull through every shot . . . it helps maintain a proper follow through. One should pull against the wall hard enough sthat when you release, your release hand should move backward and the bow should rock forward . . . without gripping the bow. At least this is how I learned to do it.
#7
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 174
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With a purpose built back tension release, shooting from a forgiving valley is THE way to go. You NEED to be able to draw through the valley with these releases (Which nealy EVERY indoor shooter uses)
On the other hand, when shooting a trigger release with back tension (Like my T.R.U. ball Chappy boss...with basically NO trigger travel) it is best to shoot from a solid wall. these releases do NOT require a lot of movement to activate...just a bit more tension. These rests do best with a solid back wall...." purebred" BT releases are best used with a large soft valley.
On the other hand, when shooting a trigger release with back tension (Like my T.R.U. ball Chappy boss...with basically NO trigger travel) it is best to shoot from a solid wall. these releases do NOT require a lot of movement to activate...just a bit more tension. These rests do best with a solid back wall...." purebred" BT releases are best used with a large soft valley.
#8
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 718
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From: Arlington WA USA
The Relax to Fire mode with the Tru Fire X-Caliper, is their answer to back tension and it works great but like back tension it takes a bit of getting used to. For me the trigger just slides off the tip of my finger and is a very smooth release.
#9
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,966
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From: Harford Co Maryland USA
In a recent article I read about shooting, the author recommended trying to " pull the bow apart" as the way to trigger the release. If you have your index finger on the trigger and pull back hard, the release goes off unexpectedly, like it should.




