Totally opposite of what should be done!

Find the perfectly spined arrow first!

From what I have read here my guess is the 2315 is on the stiff side. I shoot a
Mathews Ultra Max, 6 1/8 inch brace height, 65 lb. draw weight, 2314 28 1/4 inches
with a 100 gr. tip, or a 85 gr. thunderhead, 28 1/2 inch draw. Honestly, going
to a light carbon arrow with a mechanical broadhead is asking for trouble unless
you use weight tubes. I like to keep my total arrow weight above 450 grains or
better yet closer to 500 grains for better penetration. Try bowjackson.com to see
what the say you should be shooting. I used this for my set up and it was right on
the money spine wise.

Either way will work, as long as you end up shooting with a properly spined arrow. I would say it' s easier to match the arrow to the bow to START...but then fine tune the bow to your arrows.
Try this for tuning...has worked EVERY time for me, and I set up ALL the guy' s bows.
Shoot a couple of arrows (after your satisfied with spine) with braodheads on (say at 10 yards.
Now...without changing ANYTHING, or moving, shoot a couple of field points of matching weight. The field points tell you where to move your rest/nock. Feilds are to the left? Move rest left. FPs too high? move rest up (or nock down)
Get so they are shooting the same group...then go back to 20 yards (fine tuning) repeat untill you get a " matched group"
ULTRA fine tuning? go back to 30-40 yards.
NOTE: SOMETIMES your rest will be SO far off, that you actually need to move it the " wrong way" (Move it right even if the feilds are saying left) I blame this on the arrow flexing too much because it is not in line with the direction of force.) You MUST be somewhat close to center to start.
PERSONALLY, I start with the rest centered, and use a nock point to set my string nock. MOST nock points are injection molded...there is a seam in the exact middle of the nock. Set the nock so the seam is DEAD SQUARE to the string....move your string nock to just touch the nock point.

dsheally, Why is going to a carbon such a bad idea ?.SSSOOO many guys make them work.ALL MOST EVERY freakin hunting tape I own, somebody is zipping carbons through deer.Guys, gals, low poundage, mech.heads, fixed blades,,you name the combo, and I have it on film, in action, working GREAT.
I' m just getting tired of aluminums,I think.In this day and age, I have less time than ever to put into my archery.I NEED to go to a more trouble free direction,,more " set it, and forget it" ,,so I can shoot it and love it,,know what I mean

Yes your a littl eover-spined but I would rather be over-spined than under. Out of the 400-500 Mathews Ive tuned in the past there is one little trick that seems to work when nothing else does.

Instead of centering the arrow in the berger button hole (arrow rest hole on riser) put the arrow through the bottom half of the hole.

Dont place a whole lot of faith in paper.

FYI - I shoot a 31" 2315 w/ 125 Thunder Heads @ 71 lbs out of a Mathews Feathermax.

Just on the light carbon/mechanical thing.

I don' t think it' s a problem . I blew through 5 deer last year with a 350 grain arrow (total weight) and 100 grain Spitfires/100 Rocket Hammerheads. Shooting 300 fps . You may not get that speed at your draw length, but I feel like I have way overkill on mine ! Good Luck !!

Droptines



I would check your foc again.I really don' t think you can get 11% foc on those arrows with 85 grain points.Archers Advantage shows them with an foc of 9% with feathers and 85 gr points with 36 gr inserts.Are you sure they are 27" ?Usually when pulling 27" draw the arrow will be shorter than the draw of the bow.Not always but usually.

Yes,my draw is 27" ,and my arrows are 27" .I could have swore I check my arrows right after I fletched them with 4" feathers.The balance point was up there.When I did the math, I was surprized.Maybe I was wrong,,but thats water under the bridge for now,,on to carbons.I might try to get a small fixed blade head to fly,but thats not likely,for me anyway.Thanks for all the help guys.I just wish I could meet up with a REAL tunning " guru" ,like one of you guys.I would say," I want this bow to throw carbons into a 4" circle at 40yards" ,name your price !.My pro shop does' nt have the time to give one customer as much attention as I NEED. [X(]

Droptines, I just had 2 bad experiences before with the light carbons and a
mechanical broadhead. Penetration was very poor on both shots which were
placed behind the shoulder blades as far as I could tell. I found the arrows on
both instances broken off not far from the insert. Some people have good success
with them, but not me. I am sticking with either aluminum arrows or weighted
carbons. Whatever you decide to use try that bowjackson.com link it' s pretty
cool.