I know some of you will do it anyway(and I' ll probably try to).

But how necessary is it to get that technical ......if your going to shoot mechanicals ? Is paper tuning good enough for just mechanicals ?

If you want your bow tuned properly then group tuning is one of the processes.
Paper tuning is only a starting point followed by group tuning then creep tuning (dual cam bow).

It does not matter if you use fixed or mech you still need to group tune the bow and spin test your arrows.

I guess it is not necessary to group tune the actual mechanical - they are a real pain to shoot over and over again.

On the other hand I would NEVER rely on a paper tune as I feel they only show gross misalignments.

At the very least one should use multiple methods with the field points - group tunning, plumb-bob, horizontal line, bare shaft if you choose. get those field points flying perfect and the mechanicals should also fly very well.

Ofcourse you still have to shoot the mechanical as much as you can to confirm this

I always keep a mech from the previous year as a practice head just to be sure it will hit where it' s supposed too. My last test for bow tune is to put a Muzzy fixed blade on and see how it flies. If it hits with my field points, my mechs always fly perfectly.

I always paper tune with a bare shaft and have always had good luck with FP' s, fixed heads and mech heads all hitting the same spot.

Paper tuning is just a start for me as well. Even If I plan to use a mech head I shoot field tips and fixed blade heads making minor adjustments until I get them hitting in the same spot from 15, 25 and 35 yards. I usually use a muzzy or a Thunderhead that I have left over. Then I know I am tuned.

Fine !!!!! [:@] I was doing just dandy with my Wisker Bisket and a good paper tear.

Now, since I have been on this forum, I got a NAP QT 2000 RG for my LX today and got to group tune my set up too..................

How was I getting by before this ?????

Thanks guys !!