SouthernWyo

I'm looking for a little advise about timing a dual cam bow. I'm most familiar with timing binary cams, so I'm wondering if there's anything different I need to look at with a dual cam.

I got my son a Diamond Razor Edge for his first "real" hunting bow. It's got the 30 - 60# limbs and we've been turning up the limb bolts 1 full turn every week until now he's at 45#, the legal poundage for big game in Wyo. The problem is that the bow, with original strings and cables, will go out of time if you look at it wrong. I will have it timed reasonably well at rest and full draw and he'll shoot for a week and we're back out again, with either the bottom or top cam hitting the draw stop a full 1/8" before the other. Is this a function of turning up the poundage every once in awhile or should I just expect this type of string creep from the factory strings? ATA and BH are never more than a 16th" or so from spec.

One other question, when I put a twist in either cable, I usually have to put a twist in one side of the "Y" on the cable in order to keep that cam from pushing that side of the Y at rest, this obviously complicates things. Is there some trick or rule about twisting cables on a dual cam bow that I'm ignoring? Again, we're never really out of speck, but usually one cam or another is right at rubbing one side of the Y on the cable and a couple of twists on that side usually brings it 1/4" or so off.

Thanks for any advise.

MBmadness

I read a post on another site where a dad had this problem with his sons bow . And after all was said and done it was the stock strings that had just stretched so much he couldnt get the draw stops to hit together . But the guy that made him strings told the guy that make sure he checks the tiller and ata to keep in specs since the dad was always changing the draw weight . It kinda makes since because most bows come with a 10 pound draw weight adjustments and your sons has like 30 pounds . But good luck with that , I am not even sure this helps lol

454casull

The strings on the RE are not the best but stock and most custom strings will settle a bit until 200+ shots are reached. Always correct the yokes first then move on to the cam timing, to eliminate the yoke twisting onto itself twist the legs in opposite directions. As far as the cam timing they need to be synced at full draw and not at brace height. Once you feel the draw stops are hitting the cables together double check by letting down slowly. Watch the cams, many times one cam will start faster then the other and the difference is so slight you will usually pull right through it. It goes w/out saying that the basic specs need to be close as well.