Arrows are too stiff?
03-12-2010, 10:38 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
Josh,
I'd generally do a walkback 2-3x, making sure I have that specific pattern, and then make my adjustments. If it's real close, then I'll sometimes just screw on some BH's and see what happens at 20yds, and adjust from there. A walkback is a simple semi-rough tuning method. Probably well enough for a guy just wanting to shoot mechanicals, and not worried about more "precision tuning," but a BH tune will get you almost as precise as anything, as you're adjusting the rest not only to the arrows, but also to YOU!!! Generally if you BH tune a bow, you'll find that when finished, you even shoot your FP's better. I actually know a handful of target shooters that will BH tune their target rigs for a "super-fine" tune on them. Not that they'll ever intend on shooting BH's out of them any other time, but it helps tweak just that much more to what they are trying to accomplish.
I'd generally do a walkback 2-3x, making sure I have that specific pattern, and then make my adjustments. If it's real close, then I'll sometimes just screw on some BH's and see what happens at 20yds, and adjust from there. A walkback is a simple semi-rough tuning method. Probably well enough for a guy just wanting to shoot mechanicals, and not worried about more "precision tuning," but a BH tune will get you almost as precise as anything, as you're adjusting the rest not only to the arrows, but also to YOU!!! Generally if you BH tune a bow, you'll find that when finished, you even shoot your FP's better. I actually know a handful of target shooters that will BH tune their target rigs for a "super-fine" tune on them. Not that they'll ever intend on shooting BH's out of them any other time, but it helps tweak just that much more to what they are trying to accomplish.
This is the whole reason why I decided to start over again. For the life of me I could not get my BH and FP to hit together out at even 30 yards. I could get the Slicks and my FP to come close (3" to the left of my FP) and could not come close to getting the Muzzies (6" to the left). For some eason no matter how small an adjustment I made to the rest (QAD that has to now be replaced because in this process of tunning the bolt that tightens down the arrow rest stripped and can no longer be tightened down to hold the rest from moving left and right) I could never get the BH and FP to hit spot on. Quit frustrating and when I get a new rest and start over again I hope everything pans out!!
03-14-2010, 12:08 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 1,760
#1) by lowering the tip weight, you are strengthening the dymanic spine(flex amount) of the arrow.
#2) by shortening the shaft, you are again strengthening the spine by making the deflection of the arrow less(flex) which is again, making it stiffer.
#3) by lowering the DW u are creating less force on the arrow and bending it less(u want to flex it more) so that is not right.
A little confusion here, but do the exact opposite of kwilson's advice for the stiff spine.
Last edited by drockw; 03-14-2010 at 12:11 PM.
03-14-2010, 02:48 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
Posts: 1,398
Have you tried...?
Have you tried shooting with the wooden grip removed to see if it made a difference? Have you checked for idler wheel lean? Either of those could cause what you are seeing, just as arrow spine might. I don' know if those arrows are overspined for your bow, but you shoot be able to get most slightly overspined arrows shooting pretty well regardless.
