natimage

I always was under the impression that the tiller should equal. I don't know if that's the right terminology but you know what I mean. I just read an article online about bow tuning that says to shoot at your max range then back the top limb off .25 turn shoot again, turn it off another .25 turn and keep doing this until there's 1 full turn difference from the top to the bottom. Put the top limb back to where you started and do the same thing on the bottom limb. It said it will effect your groups and wherever you have the best group, leave it there. But then if you would measure I would guess the top and bottom would be slightly different. Is group tuning like this really a good idea? I know very little about bow tuning at this point since I'm so new to the sport but just trying to learn what's good, what isn't.

bigcountry

As always depends. If you are a finger shooting (shooting split finger), shooting a deflex-deflex or relfex-deflex compound like sold 10 years ago, you want positive tiller measureed at the limb pockets. Or you could tiller tune for quietness and nock hieght. Shooting 3 under changes this evn more but you can have less positive tiller.

If you are shooting a parrellel limb bow like todays bow with a release, you want even tiller. If shooting a single cam, you cannot measure tiller other then how many turnes.

I have found that a 1/4 twist here or there can make a bow more quiet. But remember, each time you change that tiller, you changed optimal nock placement, so its not just a simple twist.

Greg / MO

Fourth stickied thread at the top... "How To Set Your Bow's Tiller"...

bigcountry

Have you ever tried this procedure Greg? I know you know your stuff, but wondered if this worked for you? I don't agree with Arthurs assessment with modern compounds. Maybe 45" deflex compounds of days past.

TFOX

On 1 cam bows you can measure tiller by running a string from 1 axle to the other axle then measuring to the string.


I always set my tiller even,never seen a need to change but if adjusting the tiller helps you shoot better,then by all means do it.

SwampCollie

Hell I never fool with it at all except on Oneida's when they occasionally float through the shop.

I get the cam rotation set.... make sure the specs are right... make sure she hits peak weight... set the weight wherever the customer wants it.... set her up.... shoot her for effect. I can only lead a shooter so far.... otherwise we'd have a line backed up til christmas for simple bow work. Going to do some super tunes this spring and summer.

Greg / MO

LOL Big Country.... to be perfectly honest, no -- I never have. I always set mine by bottoming the limbs out and backing out an equal amount of turns like most other folks. But I figure anyone wanting to learn about tiller couldn't hurt themselves by at least perusing through the thread and seeing if they could pick up any pointers; that's why I mentioned it -- and the fact it has the most "tiller discussion" of any thread I'd seen in a long time.

bigcountry

I tried Arthur's approach on a few bows. And can't say I ever could get the results he did. I just think with these newer bows, its not necessary. I did quieten down a few bows with a 1/2 turn here or there.

Hope you didn't think I was knocking you. I sure wasn't, just wanted to know if others had luck at it.

Greg / MO

Didn't at all take it that way, buddy... not in the least.

I knew you were asking an honest question, and I gave an honest answer.

Maybe if I ever tried to get my groups tighter than they are currently at some point I'd feel the need to experiment a little bit more, but heck -- I'm never going to the Olympics, but my shooting's plenty good enough for my needs the way it is. Maybe it's just my binaries, but I know if I do my part I bust enough nocks off that I trust my setup implicitly.