clearence problem
#1
clearence problem
I cant figure this out. When I shoot my bow the vanes on my arrows are hitting the cable and its making the back of my arrow kick out. Im pretty shure my rest is centered in the riser so I dont think its that. I just cant figure this out. Can anyone tell me how to give my vanes more clearence?
#2
Clearance
A little more info would be helpful:
Bow make/model?
Vane size/type?
How are your vanes oriented now? c0ck vane up?
Is your cable guard worn/loose/damaged?
Is the set screw for your cable guard rod tight?
Has the cable guard rod moved/rotated?
How do you know the vane is contacting the cable and not the rest?
Bow make/model?
Vane size/type?
How are your vanes oriented now? c0ck vane up?
Is your cable guard worn/loose/damaged?
Is the set screw for your cable guard rod tight?
Has the cable guard rod moved/rotated?
How do you know the vane is contacting the cable and not the rest?
#3
The bow is a Bear Element
3 inch vanes
I have a whisker bisket so the **** vane is up
The bow is only a year old so the cable gaurd is fine and so is the rod.
And like I said the rest is a whisker bisket so Im pretty sure its not that.
3 inch vanes
I have a whisker bisket so the **** vane is up
The bow is only a year old so the cable gaurd is fine and so is the rod.
And like I said the rest is a whisker bisket so Im pretty sure its not that.
#4
Instead of having your index/odd vane straight up... trying canting it at about 9 o'clock. Make sure your left hen feather (which will be down in this case) will clear both your riser and stay clear of the black base bristles in your WB. If whomever set your bow up did so correctly and put the centerline of your arrow shaft in the center of your berger hole.... then this should solve the problem.
#5
I shoot my ck vane down in my wb. I guess it depends on what WB you have. Just because the bow is new doesnt mean the cable guide is setup correctly. Have you tried turning your cable rod out and see if that helps.
#6
#7
If you're sure it's not the cable guard/rod, then problem must be solved at the rest/arrow.
Swamp has a good recommendation: trying rotating the arrow slightly so that the left hen vane points more downward (towards the 4 o'clock position when viewd from behind).
Your shop may not have set the mechanical center shot correctly. In other words, your rest may be too close the riser. This is very difficult to determine without seeing the bow.
Have you thought about trying walk back tuning? You can do a search on here and finds lots of good info about it.
Swamp has a good recommendation: trying rotating the arrow slightly so that the left hen vane points more downward (towards the 4 o'clock position when viewd from behind).
Your shop may not have set the mechanical center shot correctly. In other words, your rest may be too close the riser. This is very difficult to determine without seeing the bow.
Have you thought about trying walk back tuning? You can do a search on here and finds lots of good info about it.
#8
IMO, we still don't have enough information. We need the bow's draw length and draw weight. What arrow and length and what spine rating and weight of the point?
Are you gripping the bow and torquing it? You should almost be able to eyeball from the back and see how close the vanes might pass in relation to the cables. How about checking cam lean as this can cause the arrow to waggle as it leaves the string. Has the bow been properly paper tuned? Could be several things. Don't rule any of them out without looking or trying.
Are you gripping the bow and torquing it? You should almost be able to eyeball from the back and see how close the vanes might pass in relation to the cables. How about checking cam lean as this can cause the arrow to waggle as it leaves the string. Has the bow been properly paper tuned? Could be several things. Don't rule any of them out without looking or trying.