Carbon Express Maxima best fletching?
03-01-2009, 08:37 PM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, Mi
Posts: 196
Carbon Express Maxima best fletching?
I was just wondering what the best fletching would be to get on my carbon express maxima arrows. My fletchings on them now are starting to get pretty wrinkled. If possible could you guys tell me the speccs on the 2 inch blazer vanes as opposed to 4 inch feathers or other 4 inch fletchings, like does one make the arrow faster or give more KE or what. Sorry for the questions, I just don't know much about fletchings at the moment. I am shooting a limb driver arrow rest if that helps or not.
Thanks,
-Joe
Thanks,
-Joe
03-01-2009, 09:51 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 1,760
RE: Carbon Express Maxima best fletching?
What are you going to be using the arrows for? Hunting I assume. If I were you i'd try the new Fusion by Duravanes. They seem to be built real well and the bases are definately better adhesing than blazers.
I used 2.3" 3d duravanes on my maximas and never had any issues but they are too low profile for good broad head control imo. They will do the job, but id rather have the a high profile (height)short (length) vane than a low profile one for bh's. If you are shooting expandables you would probably be fine either way...
Derek
I used 2.3" 3d duravanes on my maximas and never had any issues but they are too low profile for good broad head control imo. They will do the job, but id rather have the a high profile (height)short (length) vane than a low profile one for bh's. If you are shooting expandables you would probably be fine either way...
Derek
03-02-2009, 08:51 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
RE: Carbon Express Maxima best fletching?
The best fletchings for Maximas are the same that would be best with any other arrow you choose to shoot. Arrow brands don't make a difference here.
Assuming you want them for mainly hunting you can shoot 4" feathers if you want the utmost in stabilization. Most expensive of the three I mention here. They aren't as durable as vanes, but can get pretty torn up and still do a good job.In fact, you can shoot an arrow with justtwo or even one if your bow is tuned decent. They will need to be waterproofed if you think you'll be hunting in the rain. 4" faethers are light at about 3 grains each.
The latest rage these days, which I don't buy into, is Blazer and similar high profile vanes. They are fairly light at about 5.5 grains each. More expensive than regular vanes. They are stiff and high which is why they work so well. What you will need if you don't already have it is a drop away rest or a shoot through like the Whisker Bisquit. The main problem that some have with them is that because they have a higher profile they can have contact issues with the rest or the cables. Some bows need to have the cable slide changed to get clearance or the nocks have to be turned a bit. I'm not saying this is good or bad. Just saying some of the things you may have to do.
Regular 4" vanes are softer, slightly lower profile and heavier, usually about 8+ grains each depending on the brand. Least expensive. They have been around for decades and proven themselves to be adequate, but not perfect. More durable than feathers say some, if you shoot a hole through one or tear one up it can whistle and/or cause inaccuracy problems. In this case you need to refletch the arrow--easily done if you do your own.
They all have their own virtues and draw backs. I've used them all and frankly prefer feathers. My next choice is 4" Low Profile vanes made by Duravane. My choice of vanes is based on the quality of them compared to others. Blazers just don't light my fire. I tune my equipment well, and don't need to deal with possible clearance issues and the higher price of them. But that's me.
Speed will vary with each one, too. Highest initial velocity will be achieved from top to bottom as I have them listed. Feathers, grabbing more air to stabilize quicker will start out faster, but lose a higher percentage of it's initial speed over a longer distance, but you won't see this, compared with vanes, till the arrow is getting out around 50 yards or so.
Assuming you want them for mainly hunting you can shoot 4" feathers if you want the utmost in stabilization. Most expensive of the three I mention here. They aren't as durable as vanes, but can get pretty torn up and still do a good job.In fact, you can shoot an arrow with justtwo or even one if your bow is tuned decent. They will need to be waterproofed if you think you'll be hunting in the rain. 4" faethers are light at about 3 grains each.
The latest rage these days, which I don't buy into, is Blazer and similar high profile vanes. They are fairly light at about 5.5 grains each. More expensive than regular vanes. They are stiff and high which is why they work so well. What you will need if you don't already have it is a drop away rest or a shoot through like the Whisker Bisquit. The main problem that some have with them is that because they have a higher profile they can have contact issues with the rest or the cables. Some bows need to have the cable slide changed to get clearance or the nocks have to be turned a bit. I'm not saying this is good or bad. Just saying some of the things you may have to do.
Regular 4" vanes are softer, slightly lower profile and heavier, usually about 8+ grains each depending on the brand. Least expensive. They have been around for decades and proven themselves to be adequate, but not perfect. More durable than feathers say some, if you shoot a hole through one or tear one up it can whistle and/or cause inaccuracy problems. In this case you need to refletch the arrow--easily done if you do your own.
They all have their own virtues and draw backs. I've used them all and frankly prefer feathers. My next choice is 4" Low Profile vanes made by Duravane. My choice of vanes is based on the quality of them compared to others. Blazers just don't light my fire. I tune my equipment well, and don't need to deal with possible clearance issues and the higher price of them. But that's me.
Speed will vary with each one, too. Highest initial velocity will be achieved from top to bottom as I have them listed. Feathers, grabbing more air to stabilize quicker will start out faster, but lose a higher percentage of it's initial speed over a longer distance, but you won't see this, compared with vanes, till the arrow is getting out around 50 yards or so.
