MGH_PA

Ok, so this has been an issue I faced last season, and I need some clarification.

I'm shooting a 101st Airborne at 58-61#, 28.5" DL, shooting a 365gr ACC 3-49/390 @ 27.5-28" (they're two batches). According to Easton's chart, I'm spined fine. According to my broadhead tune, I'm showing a weak spine (BHs hitting left of FPs as I'm left handed). Turning down the poundage helped them get closer, but I don't want to go any lower, nor do I want to lower my point weight (shooting 100gr heads as it is).

I can't cut these down in size because whoever built these didn't use hot melt in the inserts, and if I cut after the inserts (both the uni-bushing in the rear and the insert up front, I will be TOO short). Rob/PA shoots this EXACT setup (slightly different arrow weight), with the same bow, same arrow (he's even shot at 68# with this setup), and never showed too weak of a spine. What the heck is going on? Can anyone with OT2 or AA clarify whether or not I am on the edge of the spine allowance or what? Thanks.

JeffB

Saw your thread on AT-

I would *think* the 3-49s should be good. 400 class shoots very well out of my GT500 and now my AM35- I know the 101 has some horsepower, but..

I think you should look at cam lean/ limb lean/ make sure your riser is straight (not bent in a press).

ALSO what kind of nocking point/loop sitch ya got going on?

MGH_PA

I have some cam lean for sure. That was I've always experienced some cable wear (more than normal) when my draw stop modules are hitting the edges before dropping the cable into the channel. That could be enough to cause this? How do you check your riser straightness? Eyeballing it doesn't show much, but do I need to level all the axes in a vise and then use a square of some sort?

As for my nocking point, I just have two tied in nocksets with a D-loop on top and bottom of the nocksets. Basically all done exactly like Greg's sticky at the top.

ampahunter

Can you stiffen the tension for the arrow rest? Have you tried moving the rest a tad bit closer to the riser, (for a lefty).I would assume you have already checked for good vaneclearance.

MGH_PA

I did move the rest when I was BH tuning, but ran out of adjustment (at least I thought I did, it's been a little while). I haven't adjusted the tension (shooting a limb driver). I don't have clearance issues, though. FPs fly great, and I walk-back tuned everything, but once I slap a 100gr Slick trick on it, I'm hitting left of my FPs.

ampahunter

The ACC 3-49's are certainly not underspined for your set up. I've found some of the older model slick tricks wobble a bit on a spin test. Have you tested for this. Sometimes you interchange the blades and even 'changing' thewasher between the BH and the insert will correct this. I'm just searching for answers here, just areas to look at.

JeffB

Yep, get it all leveled in a bow vise and then use a high quality straightedge or long level to see whats going on.

Apparently BT has had cam lean issues in the past with the Binaries, IDK- but it seems to be a common complaint. Regardless, cam lean is an issue in the general sense, and IMO is not good. It can be a big issue sometimes or very minor, but you don't want any of it. People can downplay it all they want, but bow manufacturers have been trying to eliminate it "since time began" for a reason. The cam/string/limb whipping a little sideways as well as up/forward can necessitate a stiffer arrow- the arrow is not getting a proper launch. Your form has to all be in a straight line right? As much as possible?, well the arrow launch needs to be too!

But the nock fit to the string is not super tight? not getting pinched at full draw? Bad nocks, slight nock pinch, old nocks, loose nocks, they all affect arrow flight- I've seen bows guys could NOT tune and then we put on a softer snap nock, and voila- problem solved. You are using G nocks obviously, which IMO are the best EVER, but they do get old, and they can get pinched.

Also I'm assuming your broadheads/inserts are on/in 100% straight?- you are checking them with a good arrow spinner? (not spinning them by hand or on a table or any of that). At higher speeds and fixed heads there is very little margin for error.

MGH_PA

You both brought up excellent points about spin testing these arrows! I can't believe I didn't think to do that (I don't own a spin tester, but I will get one). Now that you mention it, I believe a few of them drifted a bit more to the left than others, but I will have to double check). I will also check the riser for square as well.

I have a thread on here concerning the issue I was having with the draw stop modules hitting my cables at full draw with pictures of the cable wear. That explains the issue to a T that I've been having. I'll search a bit and see if I can dig it up.

MGH_PA

Also, my nock fit is snug, but not too tight. I have a fresh batch of G-nocks I can try, though.

JeffB

Spin testing arrows/broadheads and setting them up properly is crucial...BEYOND crucial. No way you can expect a broadhead to hit the same as a field point if there is the slightest wobble. I reccomend the Apple spin tester-sells for about $25 or $30. Great investment.