I dredged (sp?) up a few old posts from Pinwheel and others on " supertuning/creep tuning" or whatever youd like to call it and followed directions. The creep tuning actually resulted in no adjustments to my bow, whether I was hard against the wall or up in the front of the valley (which mind you with a Pat Dually at 71lbs is hard to do!) the arrows were all hitting on the same vertical plane.

From there I started group tuning, abandoning the paper that I had so dilligently blown bulletholes through. I started moving my rest to the right and shooting from 30yds and the groups just kept getting tighter. On my second adjustment I shot a 2 inch group (3 arrows) at 30yds. On the next set of arrows (no adjustment) I arrowed my first arrow. I' ve been shooting since I was 13 and I' ve never Robinhooded an arrow (39 now). The rest is now in a much more natural position instead of " way out there" . I' ve never shot this consistently at this range.

No I havent shot it through paper to see what it' s doing and I' m probably not gonna. Thanks Pinwheel, Matt, JeffB and all the other archery brains out there who make this forum worth my internet service fee.

What I' ve learned is that paper tuning is a reasonable place to start but it doesnt stop there. Having the patience and determination to keep tweeking to maximize your accuracy is painful but well worth it. Before I started tweeking today I was shooting better groups than I ever had before and I chalked it up to the new bow. But based on my form and pin placement I thought I could do better. I' m glad I didnt stop there, just hope I know when to stop now. Thanks again.

Good job!, glad to see it worked out for ya!

You have the Nap fall away on there correct?

Have you checked real good for fletching contact with that rest?

I have been playing around with one on my solo Pat, and well....I don' t want to post the results just yet......But I am trying to prevent another fit

Although I thoroughly enjoyed your last fit, I wouldnt wish that upon anybody. I do still have the NAP 4000 on but I havent checked for fletching clearance since I started tweeking. It was good before I started messing with things. I' ll check on it.

Your comments on creep tuning a PatDC echo my own observations I don' t know how you would do it, it' s like a light switch either full draw or going foward to peak weight. I like it that way in that it forces me to use back tension and shoot off the wall. With older two cam bows with a generous valley the method had some merrit but again, BowTech assures us that " This Ain' t Your Daddy' s Bow" Accuracy with my DC is better than anything I' ve had yet and my ' 02 Pat single I shot quite a bit today is right behind it with a very short valley adjustment. I read comments often about some finding the accuracy of the BKII suprising for the speed this bow generates and I believe it' s the shory valley that helps. A short valley may not be the most comfortable but if you buy a performance bow and get accuracy to match it' s easy to over look the effort[8D]

Cargo,

Most excellent...and thanx for the compliment.

I personally don' t take much stock in paper tuning..mostly because I suck, and my form is not that consistent. So I know that I' m not always going to get consistent results from paper.

Group tuning I used to do more of when I had more time to fiddle and shoot, IMO it' s the best way to fine tune a bow.

Lately, the thing I like to do is simply find absolute centershot, set the rest, leave it alone and play with arrowspine (different arrows, point weights, fletchings, etc) till I find a shaft that gives me the tightest groups at 30 plus. Most folks don' t however have dozens of different arrow shafts laying around, so they need to tune the bow to the arrow, I prefer the opposite.