pastorkhris

I shoot an easton axis arrow and I think I might have the wrong shaft; it is confusing because I do not know if my cam is a hard or medium cam.

I shoot a Hoyt Powertec
68 lbs
30 inch draw
with a 28 inch arrow
100 grain heads

Currently I am shooting 340's but there seems to be a quite a bit of wobble in the arrow. Should I be shooting 400's instead? Does anyone know if my cam is hard or medium?

Any help would be great - thanks!

Kanga

If you think your arrows have a wobble in them now wait till you see what the 400's will do

The 400's are a softer spine than the 340's and there is no way your going to get them tuned for your set up.

Have you tried lowering the poundage of your bow?

Is there any fletching contact?

What arrows where you using before switching to the Axis and did you retune the bow when you changed?

The 340's should be the right spine for your set up.

pastorkhris

This is why I like this site!! I thought that 400's were more stiff than 340's!

I know that the fletchings are not hitting so that is not the problem.

It all started when I switched to a t-bar handle release and it allowed me to move my draw length from 29 to 30 inches. Would that make a difference? Should I back off the bows poundage now that my draw length is longer?

Kanga

I think you are going to have to retune the bow since you switched to a hand held release as your anchor points are going to be different.

It might only need a small adjustment to either nock height or rest height or maybe a slight left/right adjustment to the rest.

BGfisher

I'd have to ask if the bow/arrow combination was tuned prior to switching releases. If so then increasing the draw and inch will necessitate retuning--probably dropping the poundage for starters. If it was not tuned or you don't know how to tune then you need to get a copy of Easton's Tuning Guide and get to it. You can find it at www.huntersfriend.com. Follow this and learn what tuning is about and I'll bet the wobble would go away.

You should probably be shooting a 300 spine (stiffer), but dropping the poundage can accomplish the same thing without spending money on new shafts. The limb boltsare on a bow for a reason. Don't get caught up in the idea they have to be bottomed out. When tuning adjust them, along with centershot and nocking point height and let things fall where they may. Mkae it weasy on yourself and don't try to overthink everything.

As to whether your cam is hard is medium or soft? You can hardly ever go wrong by assuming it is hard. Even if your arrowes are spined on the stiff side it's a lot easier to tune than it is with underspined arrows. This is especially true if shooting broadheads. With field points you can get half decent flight and not see a lot of the wobble you might be seeing now. Put those little blades on the front and a little wobble can become a big wobble with inconsistent flight.

pastorkhris

I had the bow throwing darts before switching releases and increasing my draw length (I had already read easton's guide, it was great) - I would rather not back off on the poundage because I liked the thought of the added speed gained from increased draw length (I know it is silly but it is true)!! I have not dry-shaft tuned the bow since changing the draw length - I did not realize that those settings would change with a greater draw length - any other advice would be great!!

bigcountry

From ontarget you should be just right with the spine. Maybe even a tad stiff. So dropping the wieght is the last thing I would try. Have you bare shaft tuned?

pastorkhris

I did bare shaft tune the bow before I increased the draw length and had the arrows flying great - will changing the draw length change the settings that bare shaft tuning would reveal?