FSUBIGMAC

I am shooting a Diamond Marquis at 68# 30" draw. Gold Tip XT Hunter 7595 with STRAIGHT Blazer fletchings? I am dead on with field points but my broadhead are around 6in low and left and not even in a good group. I am using Muzzy 100gr 4 blades. My bow is in perfect tune and my my field point groups at 20 and 30 yards are all within a 2 inch cirlcle. Could it just be the blade or what? Remind you I have no helical twist -- could that be the problem? (Note: I am not gonna put a helical twist on them due to the rut coming within the next 2 weeks and I can't afford right now). Do 3 blade fixed blades fly better than 4 blade? What about going to a mechanical for now just to make things easier? HELP please.

rybohunter

The advice you are going to get, is not going to be what you want to hear.

You're bow is not perfectly tuned, and the straight fletch is not helping if your heads are flying that far off.
1st-spin check you heads. Make sure there is no wobble.
2nd-If they are fine, & you are a right handed shot, move your rest TINY bits at a time right, until you are only hitting low(compared to FP) Then move it TINY bitsup until the BH & the FP match up.

And as a side note, it would have to be WAY cheaper (and better in the long run) to get your arrows refletched than it would be to buy new broadheads of any type. Using mechnicals would only mask your problem, not solve it. You don't even need to go full helical, but you need some offset.

bigbulls

That's backwards. Move the rest toward the field tip group

txjourneyman

No offense meant but why did you wait until now to shoot BHs? I try to have my bow shooting BHs well at least a month before the season starts.

FSUBIGMAC

Rybo Hunter: Wobble tests are good. Can't re-fletch with offset because I am shooting a hostage pro rest -- not enought clearance. I think after the season I am just gonna go to offset/helical with my old whisker biscut -- good idea? And I know my bow is tuned -- I just had my bow retuned the other day because of this problem -- Centershot is right on with the laser, knock point reset and new D loop. No idler lean anymore (that got fixed which helped a lot). I thought the Blazers were meant to stablize the arrow better in flight?

TXJOURNEYMAN: Yeah I know but i really didn't think they would be this erratic.

bigcountry

Laser centershot is not reliable and only a starting ppoint. unless the arrow is perfectly tuned to the bow, laser centershot is only a starting point.

The only way I know my bow is tuned is to broadhead tune with perfectly tuned straight arrows that has no wobble. When I say tuned arrows, I meanones that you could shoot thru paper, androtate any way around and get the same tear.

I start off using a rough eyeball tune, thentune thru paper. I then bareshaft tune out to 30 yards. I then throw broadheads on, spin test, and tune accordingly.

Paper alone does not work, laser alone is not enough. And you have to tune your bow. Not a shop. If a tech tuned your bow, then the bow is tuned for him.

Also, for a 4 blade muzzy, I would go with helical. You might have to change the rest. Or you can shoot a less "planing" broadhead like G5 or since you are stright fletched, a crimson trace would fly well.

nodog

Well if you don't think it's the bow or you and the arrow flys well with points the only thing left is heads.

To my way of thinking a bow is tuned to what's using it, if points, points, if heads, heads. That 4 blade muzzy is a good deal different than a point.

Sounds like your setup will work best with mechanicals. Try some Rage, everybodys pumped about them.

passthru79

You should be able to get at least a slight offset with the hostage rest. Even with out your fletches should be able to stabilize your arrow. Step back to 30 yards or more and shoot your broadheads. Dont worry about where they hit just watch your arrow. If your getting any tail wag or erratic flight you need to adjust your rest accordingly. Once you have perfect flight then adjust your sights. Once you do that Ill bet you some money your field tips and broadheads are pretty dang close.

rybohunter

Thanks bigbulls, you are right. The OTHER left. I'll go edit.

I too shoot a hostage pro and can get a small offset with no clearance issues. And they stabilize thunderheads.

bigcountry is right, just cause the shop "centered" everything, doesn't mean its tuned. His advice on tuning is good, I like walk back as well.

FSUBIGMAC

Alright please don't bash me here cause I am broke as **** (you pick a 4 letter cuss word to your liking). Call me dumb but I started the day with6 arrows -- 2 I have to get the inserts reset -- any good glue recommendations? So I tightened my broadheads real tight --- I had previously only hand tightened them. So i shoot first arrow -- about 2 inches below my fieldpoints -- 2nd arrow -- splits the first arrow --- AWESOME -- 3rd arrow splits the 2nd arrow -- ****(again pick cuss work to your liking) now I am down to 2 arrows. So I switch the broadhead to my other arrow and go back and shoot -- One of them flies awesome at 20 and 30 yards -- hitting about 2 inches low. The other arrow goes wherever the heck it wants -- pretty consistently way low and left.

So here are my questions -- could the one erratic arrow just be a bad arrow or maybe a bad broadhead? Do you recommend getting a new set of arrows and and starting all over with a walk back test? NOTE: My field tips hit about half inch low and left from center which I don't mind cause it give me a little leway when aiming at the heart I can aim back and high just a bit-- i think this is due to me just not moving my pins yet.


Sorry for the dumb questions -- this is my first season of actually taking this seriously. I want to get this right because I am not the one to go hunting just to wound an animal