bigcountry

I still have a bunch of old mech, like when cabelas sold them on clearance. What I do, is use them for spares. Or use them on coup de grace shots where I don't want to mess up my fixed.

I have shot a bunch of deer with both. And came to the conclution that as long as you get a pass thru, it won't matter. I see all these posts by youngun on here asking about the best bh.

I have to admit, I have before just bought a bow on a whim and wanted to take it hunting the next day. I sighted it in, and knew it needed some more work, so I put on mechs and went hunting. And killed a deer.

I have seen mechanicals fail on certain shots as most of us who went thru that stage has.

FSUBIGMAC

Yeah I am consistently hitting about and 1-1.5 inches low with the Muzzys so I should be good

Bigcountry: How do the Thunderheads fly? Any less planing than the Muzzy 4 blades? I just picked up some Thunderheads for like 15 bucks.

Michbowhunter

I'm sure for some people, mechanicals are a crutch, but they've never been that for me. I've never hunted with a bow that I didn't practice extensivelly with.Likemost of you, I like to practice withmy broadheads to make sure they're flying true; however, one of the problems I had was shooting muzzys into the block target that I use. My carbon express' would penetrate this target so deeply that I lost several muzzys along with my CE insertsin the target. I decided totry the mechanicals,and I've been happy with them thus far.

I'm not knocking fixed blades, I used them successfully for years. However, I truly believe mechanicals like the Rage, and Grim Reapers are the most technologically advanced broadheads ever engineered, and that is why I use them.

bigcountry

I like thunderheads. I still use em. But they are not durable. They do plane much like the muzzy 3blade will. Muzzy 4 blades just plane a bunch. A bow needs to be in tune with the arrow.

When I say tune the arrow, I mean, making sure its consistent spine. Most carbons are not that consistent spined. In other words if you look at them on a ram spine tester or shoot thru paper and rotate the arrow 120degrees ever shot, you might see a different tear. It might have a heavy side. These days I send them back and demand a new arrow. Carbon express, and gold tips are very good at this.

SwampCollie

BC I'm sure I speak for the group here when I say/ask.... if its ever raining outside and you are overwhelmingly bored to tears..... a sticky postwith some good pictures on exactly how you go about determining good vs bad carbons would make you a hero. Keep it in the back of your mind would you?

zrexpilot

tuning is over rated. Tuning a broad head to field points is not tuning. Paper tuning is, or bare shaft plane tuning, but whats the point if your only going to move everything around to get blades to fly like field points. I have arrowswith broad heads that do not spin great buttheyre dead on with field points, I have an arrow in my quiver thats missing most of one fletching and it still will impact the same, it does fish tail and stuff but it still hits with the others.
We did nothing to the bow but set it up and its shoot perfect with anything you stick in it. I think most of that is because of the drop away rests, which in my opinion, is the best thing to come around for a bow in a long long time

txmarshmonkey

You CAN use helical fletching with the Hostage Pro.
I shoot a Hostage pro with 4" feathers and a 6 degree helical. I don't have ANY problems and I don't have ANY wear on the brushes. I shoot Vapor 5000 series arrows with SlickTrick mags.

I moved the 2 upper brushes out a notch or two to open up the gap.I DID NOT move the bottom brush. This allows room for the helical and still holds the arrow in place.

Also, I have the same arrows fletched with Blazers and I don't have any problems with them either. Out to 30 yards, the 4" feathers and the Blazers group together with my broadheads.

In my opinion, if your getting wear on your brushes, then something is out of tune,..... bow, rest, knock point, spine issue, shooter,...somehing is out of whack.

nodog

I believed you and I'm the bad guy. Did I disagree with you? You said you were busting arrows, did I ever say you wern't tuned?
Glad you found your problem and your welcome for the nudge to find it.[8D]

I knew it could be that simple. Why didn't you try that first? And if that was your problem it was a tuning issue. Most people tune their bows by eliminating bad arrows. You said it was the heads, I told you to replace them and I know those arrows aren't that straight.

Guys like me aye! I'll give ya a pass since your knew here, or are you?

FSUBIGMAC

Yeah my bad nodog, just been frustrating dealing with all this. I re-read your post and I apologize -- I took that the total wrong way. Not being a smart ass here -- but please tell me if it sounds like its the arrows and my bow is in tune. Moved my arrow rest up cause I was hitting 2 - 3 inches low with BH's -- caused FP group to hit about bullseye but BH's still hitting 2 - 3 below FP's.So i moved the rest back down to where it was so that my FP group was dead on. I picked up some switchblades for the heck of it. Shot SB and BOOM -- Bullseye at 20 -- shot FP to compare -- split the arrow with the switchblade. I am thinking it may be the straight fletch not providing enough rear drag causing the arrow to dive with fixed blades.I am getting some arrows fletched as we speak with offset blazers -- hopefully this will help the BH's fly better. I will keep ya posted. Please comment on my ideas about the fletchings bein the problem.