This weekend I was lowering my bow from my stand when the wind caught it and swung it into a bush. I was concerned that this might have bumped my rest or sights. I so I went home and shot it a few times. It shot fine. Same patterns, arrows touching back to 25 yardsand 1.5" group at 35 yards.

Just for kicks...and due to the fact that I am truly OCD with my bow, I decided to walk-back test it. Fine.Perfect2" vertical line. Next I got out my unfletched shaft and shot it. Fine. Straight as a laser out to 10 yards. Next I got out my old picture frame I use for paper tuning and this is where my anxiety started. I got bullet holes standing at8 feet. I then stepped back to about 5 yards just to see how it would tear. Uh oh...tear low...and I get a cold sweat. Next shot. Tear low again.Same thing with the third shot. I am not talking big tears, prolly only a half inch or so low.

I am not going to adjust my nock or rest based on the results of my paper tuning. However, I am curious as to why the bow shoots perfectly with my other tuning tests and even shoots bullet holes at 7-8 feet, but tears low at 5 yards. Any suggestions?

I use paper to show what my arrow is doing right after it leaves the string. That means I am not really ever farther than maybe 6 feet from the paper. I have done it at farther distances but I think it loses its effectiveness due to other influences on the arrow the fartherthe arrowis from the bow. I would not be concerned with any kind of tear at 5 yards.

If you have ever seen high speed photography of an arrow in flight, especially within 5 yds of the bow, you would not wonder why there was a tear low, high, or otherwise.

You already know what your problem is...............OCD.

Then again,I suppose you could tune out that 5 yd tear, but you'd have to limit all your shots to 5 yds and under. Longer shots would of course require more tuning.

go shoot a deer, you'll forget all about it.

As for suggestions, paper tuning is a starting point of tuning, not and END ALL!!! If that bow shoots perfect through paper, but won't get a BH anywhere near your FP's then is it really "TUNED???" I think not, but that's my personal opinion, and that's all it's worth. Just and FYI, that bow ain't that dainty!!! I've dropped mine before, hung it up on stuff and "forced" it through, etc, and it don't hurt them that much!!!! For the low tears, that arrow is climbing when it first leaves the bow, so it should make sense that once you get a little ways from the bow, you'd get low tears....

Don't "OVERTHINK IT!!!"

Well, I don't really know how to prove the groups to you other than to tell you it's the truth. I use pear fishing bobbers and flourescent "yard sale" stickers for targets and my arms and eyes are trained for those ranges. Groups at ranges out to 30 - 35 yards are generally 1.5" to 2.5" depending on how much I've shot that week. Here's a pic of my fishing bobbers.

Next, I didn't say anything about the broadheads not shooting right. They're tuned in and group right with my fielf tips. G5 Strikers are deadly reliable.

Thanks for the advice on arrow climb causing the tears. I have never seen a slow motion film of an arrow in flight shot from a compound so I didn't know it would flex that much. Learn something all the time.