follow through
#2
It could, but not necessarily. It just might be a tuning issue; probably a slightly high nocking point for the "LOW". Spine issue for the "LEFT". Try www.bowjackson.com and get a look at Easton's Tuning Guide. Work with the broadhead tuning section.
The reason I say it might not be you is because -----are your arrows grouping pretty well? If you're dropping your arm I doubt that it would be consistent so your arows wouldn't group. But then what do you call a group? 2' to 4" at 20 yards is a common sized group. Larger than that it might be you and your shooting form.
No matter, something you need to get out of the habit of doing is looking for your arrow. You should not have to look. The only thing you should be doing is aiming. The arow will only go where the sight is aiming when the arrow leaves the bow.
I had a coach 30 years ago that taught me some things I've never forgotten. "Aim the bow, aim the bow, aim the bow. Shoot the bow and let the bow shoot the arrow. The best shots you ever make will be those where you don't see the arrow."
The reason I say it might not be you is because -----are your arrows grouping pretty well? If you're dropping your arm I doubt that it would be consistent so your arows wouldn't group. But then what do you call a group? 2' to 4" at 20 yards is a common sized group. Larger than that it might be you and your shooting form.
No matter, something you need to get out of the habit of doing is looking for your arrow. You should not have to look. The only thing you should be doing is aiming. The arow will only go where the sight is aiming when the arrow leaves the bow.
I had a coach 30 years ago that taught me some things I've never forgotten. "Aim the bow, aim the bow, aim the bow. Shoot the bow and let the bow shoot the arrow. The best shots you ever make will be those where you don't see the arrow."
#3
Good info from BG. I used to have a bad habit of peeking to the left to see where the arrow was going to hit. It will send them left for a RH shooter. I still do it once in a great while.
What worked for me was to convice myself that I was going to see the arrow hit the target through the peep site. I understand that this is not possible but it helps to keep me from peeking. Concentrate on watching the arrow through the peep.
What worked for me was to convice myself that I was going to see the arrow hit the target through the peep site. I understand that this is not possible but it helps to keep me from peeking. Concentrate on watching the arrow through the peep.
#4
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
WHile I like what mez is saying I think it should be done more like MdDave said. Concentrate on pushing your pin into the bullseye as long as you can FORGET THE ARROW, You will only effect it NEGATIVELY. One other tip is shoot the smallest bullseye possible. A 2" or less pc of paper on bare bale is perfect. Then try to push the pin through the target until it falls on its own.
First step is DON'T CHOKE THE BOW TO DEATH. Hold it loosely in your left hand and wear a wrist sling to mentally deal with the fear of dropping it. Then use the heel of your hand to push the bow forward 'til it falls off balance by itself. One way to learn this is by shooting with your eyes closed at about 5 yds. Get into your form, Draw, Sight, Close your eyes and sqeeeeeze off the shot and don't open your eyes until the bow is at your side. You will be amazed how well you will hit and the group you shoot. Go back to this exercise anytime you have trouble with this issue or Target Panic.
Hope this helps.....Dave in WV(dryridge)
First step is DON'T CHOKE THE BOW TO DEATH. Hold it loosely in your left hand and wear a wrist sling to mentally deal with the fear of dropping it. Then use the heel of your hand to push the bow forward 'til it falls off balance by itself. One way to learn this is by shooting with your eyes closed at about 5 yds. Get into your form, Draw, Sight, Close your eyes and sqeeeeeze off the shot and don't open your eyes until the bow is at your side. You will be amazed how well you will hit and the group you shoot. Go back to this exercise anytime you have trouble with this issue or Target Panic.
Hope this helps.....Dave in WV(dryridge)
#5
While what Dryridge said is good advice I would recommend doing it at about 5', not 5 yards. This is referred to as "blind baling" and can be a very useful way to learn how to "feel" the shot execution. A lot of target archers use is and do it for hours on end. That's why they shoot so well. They pay attention to their form and shot sequence and not where the arrow hits. Good, consistent form is what leads to consistent accuracy. It builds confidence in your own ability.
#6
Spike
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: live oak, FL
good stuff here fella's! I know I have to work on this myself. I have a tendency to want to take a peek at where the arrow is gonna hit. alot of times I don't realize I am doing it. when I figure out I am doing it, I correct myself and my groups tighten up! tough habit to break though, for me anyway.
#7
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
BGFisher....You are spot on, it is "Blind Bale Shooting"....and I realize that 5ft is the norm but for years now I have had my students and folks that need help to do it at 5yds. they can hit the target butt just fine and doing it at 5yds seems to instill more confidence. Since this is mental training anyway, that to me means it should work better if it instills more confidence.
Also some do blind bale shooting as a complete draw/release cycle so they have to be at 5ft. But if you recall, I said to aim and then close your eyes and release. 5 yds works well for this. Just a little different twist. Give it a try!
Dave
PS: The one thing I didn't think about was that I am always standing there beside them at first teaching them the process and I would stop them if they were going to miss the target butt. However, I never had anyone miss or have to stop them. But it is a thought that if you don't have a buddy looking on, you may want to start out at 5ft then once you get the hang of it move back to NO MORE than 5yds.
Also some do blind bale shooting as a complete draw/release cycle so they have to be at 5ft. But if you recall, I said to aim and then close your eyes and release. 5 yds works well for this. Just a little different twist. Give it a try!
Dave
PS: The one thing I didn't think about was that I am always standing there beside them at first teaching them the process and I would stop them if they were going to miss the target butt. However, I never had anyone miss or have to stop them. But it is a thought that if you don't have a buddy looking on, you may want to start out at 5ft then once you get the hang of it move back to NO MORE than 5yds.
#8
Dave,
I know what you're getting at. I just figure that almost any shot I take these days is like blind bale shooting. Like I can't even see the bale---with my eyes open. LOL And for the kind of coaching you're doing there isn't really that much difference between the two distances. Especially if a coach is standing there to help. Still, it's good to learn how to visualize a spot and "feel" the shot.
I know when I get into it I can sometimes shoot better groups at 15 yards than some guys can with their eyes open. Nothing like a mental picture.
I know what you're getting at. I just figure that almost any shot I take these days is like blind bale shooting. Like I can't even see the bale---with my eyes open. LOL And for the kind of coaching you're doing there isn't really that much difference between the two distances. Especially if a coach is standing there to help. Still, it's good to learn how to visualize a spot and "feel" the shot.
I know when I get into it I can sometimes shoot better groups at 15 yards than some guys can with their eyes open. Nothing like a mental picture.




