khawk

Ok,
New arrows (red head 350 carbon maxx arrows cut @ 27.5 in.) check.
New Wb.check.
Poundage adjusted (69 lbs) check.
Draw length checked (28.5) check.
New paper tuning rack built. check.
I keep getting a high paper tear no matter how I move the nock and frustration is mounting!!I read that the lower tiller adjustment could make a high tear. Is this true and if so, how much should it be adjusted.

talone

I had the same problem with my Hoyt vectrix xl and finally found out it was out of time took it to three different shops beore I found someone who "knew" hoyt bows five min in his hands and i was shooting bullets needless to say he will have all my buisness from now on. I'm not familiar with your bow but thats what was causing my bad tears drove me crazy trying to get it figured out.

im ocd

I would try a drop away (like the Dropzone) and see if the tear improved.
Tip weight can affect verticaltear.
Different fletching, maybe feathers?
Grip.

mobow

Just to make sure both limbs are even, tighten each limb bolt all the way down....Then back them each off, 1/2 turn at atime, to the draw weight you are looking for. Also, check the cam timing.

TFOX

2 things stand out to me,first is an off brand arrow with a spine range that would make me supect about spine.

A WB that could be causing the arrow to push up off thebristles,if the bristles are too stiff for those arrows,then itwould be like have your spring tension too heavy on a tarditional style prong rest or vane contact in that area,with no way to correct it.

Or a combination of both.The others have also brought up some good points as well.

khawk

I was told that a single cam bow couldnt get out of time? Has anyone else heard this?

mobow

TFOX brings up a good point about the biscuit...If you're not already, make sure you are shooting cock vane up. Those black bristles are much stiffer to support the weight of the arrow.

khawk

They are perfectly vertical. Does therre need to be a lean front to back?

Dryridge

As for your question of timing of a single cam....Ideally it should pay out the same amount of cable it takes in and do so without causing any undue stressors. However, limbs have to be stressed by the force of the string/cams. So if you have a smaller idler(top) than cam (bottom) then they figured out that didn't cause the limbs to stress (or flex) evenly. So it is usually necessary to set the top limb ahead a turn or two to even out the stress. So some of us call this "TIMING" the bow, but it is actually a misnomer. We are actually "PreStressing" the bow.

First thing that comes to mind is UNDERSPINED shafts.Turn the poundage down about 4 turns each limb (no more than 2 or 3 turns at time per limb) and see if that fixes it. If so, leave the poundage down and/or go to lighter heads..or get stiffer arrows.

If not, then lets start all over and "TUNE" this bow.
First, turn it all the way down as mobow said. Tighten them until they bottom out against the riser. Again be sure to not turn it more than 3 turns at once per limb as this can damage the limbs or limb pockets/seats. COUNT THE NUMBER OF COMPLETE TURNS IT TAKES TO BOTTOM OUT EACH LIMB. See if one took more than the other(going back to what I said above about "timing" it should have taken less on top more on bottom) Be sure you remember or write down how many it took for each. While you have the limbs bottomed measure the tiller. This is done bymeasuring the distance on the back of the bow from where the limb meets the riser to the string.This is just FYI and how the tiller left the factory, It likely isn't even as you are usedto on other bows.Next thing you do is mark both limb bolts from the center upward and onto the washer and limb with white paint or nail polish. This is to be sure you are turning the limbs perfectly even...
Now its time to back them out.The best place to stop turning them back outis by splitting the difference between the number of turns it took to tighten the limbs. Say it took 10 for one and fourteen for the other...then back both out 12 and you should be close to the same poundage you were. Now RECHECK YOUR NOCK POINT. Set it at DEAD FLAT if you shoot a loop, if not get one on it now.You want the center of the shaft at the center of the rest which should also be at the center of the rest mounting holes. Now is also a good time to check the rest. Make sure that it's centered hole for hole with the mounting hole. Make sure that it is NOT leaning backward. If it is that could be the problem. Also, as mentioned, be sure your cock fletch is up. See if this fixes it.
IF NOT, then back the bottom limb bolts out one turn at a time and shoot up to 3 or 4 turns. See if this helps.
If Not, then I honestly don't have a clue. Something here should have fixed it.

I know most of this was covered above this post but honestly, if you do it one step at a time then everything else gets out of whack. You must do it all at once and reset the nock lastly and with every adjustment.

Hope this helps.

Dave (Dryridge) Former Staff Shooter and Pro Shop owner. I take pride intuningthe bows no one else can