Dryridge

As for your question of timing of a single cam....Ideally it should pay out the same amount of cable it takes in and do so without causing any undue stressors. However, limbs have to be stressed by the force of the string/cams. So if you have a smaller idler(top) than cam (bottom) then they figured out that didn't cause the limbs to stress (or flex) evenly. So it is usually necessary to set the top limb ahead a turn or two to even out the stress. So some of us call this "TIMING" the bow, but it is actually a misnomer. We are actually "PreStressing" the bow.

First thing that comes to mind is UNDERSPINED shafts.Turn the poundage down about 4 turns each limb (no more than 2 or 3 turns at time per limb) and see if that fixes it. If so, leave the poundage down and/or go to lighter heads..or get stiffer arrows.

If not, then lets start all over and "TUNE" this bow.
First, turn it all the way down as mobow said. Tighten them until they bottom out against the riser. Again be sure to not turn it more than 3 turns at once per limb as this can damage the limbs or limb pockets/seats. COUNT THE NUMBER OF COMPLETE TURNS IT TAKES TO BOTTOM OUT EACH LIMB. See if one took more than the other(going back to what I said above about "timing" it should have taken less on top more on bottom) Be sure you remember or write down how many it took for each. While you have the limbs bottomed measure the tiller. This is done bymeasuring the distance on the back of the bow from where the limb meets the riser to the string.This is just FYI and how the tiller left the factory, It likely isn't even as you are usedto on other bows.Next thing you do is mark both limb bolts from the center upward and onto the washer and limb with white paint or nail polish. This is to be sure you are turning the limbs perfectly even...
Now its time to back them out.The best place to stop turning them back outis by splitting the difference between the number of turns it took to tighten the limbs. Say it took 10 for one and fourteen for the other...then back both out 12 and you should be close to the same poundage you were. Now RECHECK YOUR NOCK POINT. Set it at DEAD FLAT if you shoot a loop, if not get one on it now.You want the center of the shaft at the center of the rest which should also be at the center of the rest mounting holes. Now is also a good time to check the rest. Make sure that it's centered hole for hole with the mounting hole. Make sure that it is NOT leaning backward. If it is that could be the problem. Also, as mentioned, be sure your cock fletch is up. See if this fixes it.
IF NOT, then back the bottom limb bolts out one turn at a time and shoot up to 3 or 4 turns. See if this helps.
If Not, then I honestly don't have a clue. Something here should have fixed it.

I know most of this was covered above this post but honestly, if you do it one step at a time then everything else gets out of whack. You must do it all at once and reset the nock lastly and with every adjustment.

Hope this helps.

Dave (Dryridge) Former Staff Shooter and Pro Shop owner. I take pride intuningthe bows no one else can