DRAW LENGTH
#1
DRAW LENGTH
I have been shooting my pse with a 29 inch dl plus a loop for about 3 years its the only bow i have ever owned. I am buying me a SB XT so me and 2 friends went to the nearest mathews dealer around. We all looked around and talked, before we left we decided to get our dl measured because another friend was shooting a 30 in draw and when he got his mathews he shot a 28.5. When he measured me he said i had a 27 in draw, i put my fist up against the wall and he measured back to the corner of my mouth. This was a BIG suprise i had my pse with me and they couldnt believe how far back it came my loop was all the way back toward my ear. Anyway is this the most accurate way to measure the dl fist to the wall or is there a more accurate way? When i order it i want to get it right so i dont have to wait for them to send it back and get the right dl. Thanks in advance.
#4
RE: DRAW LENGTH
Many will tell you to use the wingspand method which if you asked this over there I am sure that is what you heard.
I disagree with that method but it might get you close but I can look at most and get them close.
The best method is to draw a bow back and measure it that way.
I have seen the way that shop measure get you close as well.
I disagree with that method but it might get you close but I can look at most and get them close.
The best method is to draw a bow back and measure it that way.
I have seen the way that shop measure get you close as well.
#6
RE: DRAW LENGTH
I think that you've found that it's not really important which method you use. Any are better than what you were doing. You most certainly were in the majority that shoot several inches too long because of not knowing any better.
Draw length is a very personal matter, but getting close to what you should shoot helps keep body parts in line, which helps accuracy a heap. Personally I use the wingspan method, and then get bows that are draw length adjustable. There are several reasons for this. First, bows are put toether at the factory and shipped to the dealer. Not many have the string/cable twisted so as to put the bow in proper specs, including the draw length. Therefore, few bows really come off the rack set to the length they are marked (bottom limb tag), and most are long. That's why it's important, when buying a bow, to have the draw length actually measured and/or adjusted on the bow you intend to buy.
Secondly, very few bowhunters know how or what is meant buy an optimum draw length. This meaning adjusting the length down to last 1/8" or so. There are reasons for being this picky, which takes time and experience to learn, and the desire to do so. This is also a reason I hardly ever recommend buying a bow that is draw length specific, such as what you are looking at.
Let's face it. You shot a bow that was several inches too long for how many years? Now you find that out. But what if you buy a $700+ bow that is not adjustable and find it still doesn't fit. Well, now you're stuck with it or paying a lot of money to buy a new cam and possibly the string/cables to match. We're talking about maybe $150 more.
I've been shooting and bowhunting over 35 years. I get a new bow every year. I know that my draw length is 27" plus or minus an 1/8", depending on the bow, and I refuse to buy a bow that is draw length specific.
By the way, it's easier to sell a bow that is adjustable, too, should you ever want to upgrade again.
These are just some of my thoughts on the subject.
Draw length is a very personal matter, but getting close to what you should shoot helps keep body parts in line, which helps accuracy a heap. Personally I use the wingspan method, and then get bows that are draw length adjustable. There are several reasons for this. First, bows are put toether at the factory and shipped to the dealer. Not many have the string/cable twisted so as to put the bow in proper specs, including the draw length. Therefore, few bows really come off the rack set to the length they are marked (bottom limb tag), and most are long. That's why it's important, when buying a bow, to have the draw length actually measured and/or adjusted on the bow you intend to buy.
Secondly, very few bowhunters know how or what is meant buy an optimum draw length. This meaning adjusting the length down to last 1/8" or so. There are reasons for being this picky, which takes time and experience to learn, and the desire to do so. This is also a reason I hardly ever recommend buying a bow that is draw length specific, such as what you are looking at.
Let's face it. You shot a bow that was several inches too long for how many years? Now you find that out. But what if you buy a $700+ bow that is not adjustable and find it still doesn't fit. Well, now you're stuck with it or paying a lot of money to buy a new cam and possibly the string/cables to match. We're talking about maybe $150 more.
I've been shooting and bowhunting over 35 years. I get a new bow every year. I know that my draw length is 27" plus or minus an 1/8", depending on the bow, and I refuse to buy a bow that is draw length specific.
By the way, it's easier to sell a bow that is adjustable, too, should you ever want to upgrade again.
These are just some of my thoughts on the subject.
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
RE: DRAW LENGTH
all of the answers above are great......i will add another comment...if you are that much over drawn (which sounds like a lot) but shot well to your expectations,,why change?? sometimes just becuase peoples "standards" say you need to or have to shot a bow with "X" draw length is not always right.....everybody is different....i shot a 31" draw but if you measure me i should shot a 30 1/8" ...not a huge difference, but i shoot the 31" just fine so i don't plan on changing.... just my 2cents.
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