Setting Nock Point - Quick Help :)
#1
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 959

So I was tryin to fine tune my bow tonight after getting the new strings on, and as I was drawing back my arrown dropped down....the guy at the shop had taken my drop zone apart and put a new string in, well it came apart.
I guess I am just glad that it happened now instead of during the season. So I decided that I am going to go back to a Whisker Biskit for this season and do it myself since I am completely fed up with the shops around here.
I am using a bow square and my question is setting up the nock point. Should I have the square laying flat against the bottom of the rest (where the arrow will be laying in the whisker biskit) or should I have it sitting about halfway (directly in the center of where the arrow rests)
Also, should I set the center of the string loop dead on 0, or have it like an 1/8th of an inch high or what?
This is obviously my first time doing this, but I am so sick of the shops around here I figure I am better off learning from you guys and doing it myself.
I guess I am just glad that it happened now instead of during the season. So I decided that I am going to go back to a Whisker Biskit for this season and do it myself since I am completely fed up with the shops around here.
I am using a bow square and my question is setting up the nock point. Should I have the square laying flat against the bottom of the rest (where the arrow will be laying in the whisker biskit) or should I have it sitting about halfway (directly in the center of where the arrow rests)
Also, should I set the center of the string loop dead on 0, or have it like an 1/8th of an inch high or what?
This is obviously my first time doing this, but I am so sick of the shops around here I figure I am better off learning from you guys and doing it myself.
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Posts: 2,188

What type of sqaure do you have? One of the older versions that is a thin metal or one of the newer ones that is a tube?
If it's a tube set the tube even with the center of your burger button hole and the nock straight back from this center position. This is just your starting point. Some bows like the center to be at the top of the burger hole. Eitherway you typically set-up the arrow for a WB to be parallel to the bow shelf.
If you have one of the old thin metal ones set the bottom of the square at the center of the burger hole and your you nock 1/8" above the mark that alignes with the bottom of the square and the bottom nock 1/8" below depending on the nocks you use.
It's hard to explain but relatively easy to do once you get the idea.
If it's a tube set the tube even with the center of your burger button hole and the nock straight back from this center position. This is just your starting point. Some bows like the center to be at the top of the burger hole. Eitherway you typically set-up the arrow for a WB to be parallel to the bow shelf.
If you have one of the old thin metal ones set the bottom of the square at the center of the burger hole and your you nock 1/8" above the mark that alignes with the bottom of the square and the bottom nock 1/8" below depending on the nocks you use.
It's hard to explain but relatively easy to do once you get the idea.
#3
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 959

So do I set the nock an 1/8 high, then put the string loop above that? I can't remember how they had it set up when they set me up with a biskit..I have a thin metal one...but it was just bought. haha
Would I be better of going with one nock (above, or below) or two? Wouldn't two pinch it?
W
Would I be better of going with one nock (above, or below) or two? Wouldn't two pinch it?
W
#4
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location:
Posts: 289

ORIGINAL: Buck_Slayer
So I was tryin to fine tune my bow tonight after getting the new strings on, and as I was drawing back my arrown dropped down....the guy at the shop had taken my drop zone apart and put a new string in, well it came apart.
I guess I am just glad that it happened now instead of during the season. So I decided that I am going to go back to a Whisker Biskit for this season and do it myself since I am completely fed up with the shops around here.
I am using a bow square and my question is setting up the nock point. Should I have the square laying flat against the bottom of the rest (where the arrow will be laying in the whisker biskit) or should I have it sitting about halfway (directly in the center of where the arrow rests)
Also, should I set the center of the string loop dead on 0, or have it like an 1/8th of an inch high or what?
This is obviously my first time doing this, but I am so sick of the shops around here I figure I am better off learning from you guys and doing it myself.
So I was tryin to fine tune my bow tonight after getting the new strings on, and as I was drawing back my arrown dropped down....the guy at the shop had taken my drop zone apart and put a new string in, well it came apart.
I guess I am just glad that it happened now instead of during the season. So I decided that I am going to go back to a Whisker Biskit for this season and do it myself since I am completely fed up with the shops around here.
I am using a bow square and my question is setting up the nock point. Should I have the square laying flat against the bottom of the rest (where the arrow will be laying in the whisker biskit) or should I have it sitting about halfway (directly in the center of where the arrow rests)
Also, should I set the center of the string loop dead on 0, or have it like an 1/8th of an inch high or what?
This is obviously my first time doing this, but I am so sick of the shops around here I figure I am better off learning from you guys and doing it myself.
You don't need a bowsquare to set the nockpoint for the whisker biscuit.
The bow should be set at an even tiller first. Simply backing both limb bolts out the same amout will be close enough.
Than set the arrow so its at a 90degree angle to the bowstring. You don't need a bowsquare for that.
The windage for the rest is determined by doing a walkback from 10-20-30-40yards. If you are shooting fingers the rest will often be about an1/8" to the outside of the centerline of the bow for it to shoot its narrowest groups. For a release it will usually be closer to the centerline of the bow.
Good luck tuning!
Good luck hunting! >>>------------>
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Posts: 2,188

If you are talking about steel nocks I'd only go with one. most people remove the steel nocks all together and either use none at all, dental floss, or nock string to create nocks. Two metal nocks will pinch the arrow nock.
I've used dental floss and it works good enough.
Put your nock, or top loop so that the bottom of the nock or loop is 1/8"above the centerline. This should put your arrow at 90 degrees at Arrrowman is stating. After you do the first nock, nock an arrow to make sure it is right. You can always check by putting the bow string parallel to the ground while hanging an arrow off of the string. It's a quick and dirty way of checking. however, if you do as described you will be pretty close and can tune it in using either walk back, paper or French tuning.
I've used dental floss and it works good enough.
Put your nock, or top loop so that the bottom of the nock or loop is 1/8"above the centerline. This should put your arrow at 90 degrees at Arrrowman is stating. After you do the first nock, nock an arrow to make sure it is right. You can always check by putting the bow string parallel to the ground while hanging an arrow off of the string. It's a quick and dirty way of checking. however, if you do as described you will be pretty close and can tune it in using either walk back, paper or French tuning.
#6
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 2,877

Here is Greg's excellent post on this: http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2185934